Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Well, perhaps just the opposite, ratio is computed, and pressure is measured after the fact (and varies with the condition of the rings and valves, for example...)
I read your other posts about the damaged spark plug threads and the insert. I suspect your next step will be pulling the heads and...
OK, it might be best to post them as PSI as that is the convention for a compression test.
That said, you should follow the steps described in the link I posted earlier, and these steps will help isolate whether it is rings or valves that are the problem.
If I multiply out your 'ratios'...
A/C? Not DC? The only place (that I know of, but don't have one of this model) were there would be A/C is the stator output. If you had a defective stator diode(s), you might have A/C on the output, likely low current, and no charging. Have you checked the alternator's rectifiers to be sure...
Something is wrong here, a compression gauge gives reading in pressure, not ratio. Is there a PSI reading for this gauge, and if so, what were they reading in PSI. That will be more meaningful than a 3:1 or a 5.8:1 number since we don't know that those numbers relate to.
That said, your numbers...
Compression ratio is basically mathematically based, not measured. It consists of the ratio of the volume of the cylinder with the piston fully down plus the volume of the head's pocket and the piston's pocket (which for a domed piston can be negative) to the same numbers with the piston fully...
One has to wonder just what they (the military) was/is putting in the fuel tanks to do this, or whether this 'gunk' is the result of normal breakdown/evaporation of diesel fuel? I have an old day tank from a 60's vintage generator set, and the black stuff in it was incredible--hardened to almost...
One thought, there is a guy in Raymond who does a lot of these units (he had four or five when I was at his place last year). He might have pointers, and perhaps some spare parts. PM me and I'll give you contact info--I think he's on here, if so perhaps he'll jump in? :jumpin:
The parts price seems reasonable (labor is not bad either, valve guides are a PITA to do...) When I rebuilt my D198 (4 cyl) head last summer, it took about two hours to do, but I didn't have to replace valve guides. Parts in my case were just the gasket/seal kit (so less than yours), but overall...
Hi Joe, I do remember you from HML days. You may want to try TSC for batteries as they may have a better selection. Don't know if you have one near you however.
If you can produce 240 volts single phase with a generator set, what you can use is an auto-transformer that has a tap at 120 volts. These are actually common (much more common overseas, where every electrical store always has them) and solve the problem nicely. If you keep your two legs...
Two things... First I wired my transfer switch (with does six circuits) to be three phase. Was easy to do, and solves the problem(s) of compatibility.
Second, an auto-transformer, used in boost mode needs only be rated for the difference in the power not the entire load. So generally an...
I have to admit, that creating this Wiki has motivated me to consider creating one for the MEP-004 sets. I may not be a total expert on them, but I sure can get the ball rolling. :lol:
BTW, there is a way to get a neutral without modifying the gen set, using an auto-transformer. I can research what is needed and post something if anyone is interested, however, the cost of such a transformer (if new) would be about what the generator costs. Found surplus it would be much less!
A quick spark when connecting is normal, that's the capacitor charging.
26.5 volts is a good charging voltage, anything between 26 and 28 volts is fine for a 24 volt battery system.
Sounds good! :jumpin:
I bet it does! :mrgreen: probably be ideal for that use.
A number of us tow them with 3/4 ton HD trucks. You need good brakes (and a 1/2 ton generally won't have good enough brakes--it is amazing when you see how big the brakes on my Dodge 2500 HD are...)
No, you drain the air tank (drain on...
For xmission and anyone who wants 'em, here are the MEP-004 manuals in PDF form. Gotten from LOGSA last year, so should be as current as possible...
http://www.hipson.net/military/LO_9-6115-464-12_(Lubrication_MEP-004A).pdf
http://www.hipson.net/military/TM_9-6115-464-12_(Operator_MEP-004A).pdf...
The rated output on the Wiki is the same for both, and should be different since the 003 variant does produce more power. (The MEP-003 numbers seem incorrect?)
But... Fantastic job even with a few minor problems. (and being a writer I appreciate how difficult it is to get everything right the...
Most run just fine at 120/208 (not 240) and you can get about 67% full rated current without any problems. You can also take that third 120 volt leg and use it to power some circuits as well. Does take a bit of customized wiring of your transfer switch, but it is very possible to do. My manual...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.