Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Just make up a daisy chain jumper with spade connectors crimped on the ends and jump 2,4,6 and 8 together, then reinstall as normal.
3 wires, 4 spade connectors. Build them into a jumper chain....
Also, you're measuring S1-7 right at the switch and nothing there when attempting to crank?
At first glance of the schematic, I think that would have to be a problem with the S1 switch itself, if you have power on S1-6 but nothing on S1-7 while cranking.
Is this a new to you machine ( from auction etc ) or something you've had running and not it won't start?
Can you post a picture of the inside of the control panel, showing all the "Relays" mounted in a row?
The "right" side of CR1 goes to the FU1 fuse and eventually to the alternator.
Power comes from the alternator, through FU1, into CR1 (right side ) then out CR1 left side and eventually to the dead crank switch.
For the overload issue, get a can of Deoxit contact cleaner and spray and vigorously exercise both the AC select switch ( need to remove front top cover to clean the switch internals ) and also the AM/VM selector switch on the front panel. Get the cleaner inside the switch through the holes and...
Yes, very similar. Does yours have a fuel tank in the upper platform? I think mine may be slightly longer, I think it is the same size as the trailer itself. Yours looks to be slightly shorter than the trailer and maybe a little tight to put 2 gens side by side.
In the picture above you would spin that gen around and slide it backwards more, remove the front tool box and put the other 802 sideways all the way forward.
Hi Digger, I've done that with 2 802's on that trailer before, but not side by side. I mounted the forward one sideways and the 2nd gets mounted front to back all the way rearward with the control panel obviously to the rear. It fits, but access to the left side door in the front gen and the...
The procedure to test the Main load contactor CB2 is on page 3-71 of the -12 operator and organizational maintenance manual. If you find that it does not close when applying 24V to pins A and B of the contactor's connector, try whacking it with a rubber or dead blow hammer while applying 24V...
The TM has a page that lists all the reference indicators and what they are. It's important to become familiar with these references. because everything in the TM and schematics use the "S2" and "CB1" etc. references.
Do as Guy asked, if CB2 does not close and DS6 does not illuminate, the TM...
Look on ebay under Stanadyne 24371 injection pump kit.
Price ranges from $25 to $40
The 2 black rubber umbrella seals in that kit are the parts you need for your shaft leak repair.
If you have a Home Depot nearby, for $28 you can get a Kill-A-Watt meter that will plug into the 120V courtesy outlet, it will accurately read volts and Hertz.
Most likely your gage or the frequency transducer that drives the gage is dead.
The kit to rebuild the IP is like $30 for the basic kit, or a little over $100 if you go with the upgraded metal governor weight basket.
If you only need to replace the umbrella seals that are leaking fuel into the crankcase, those are "external" to the pump and don't require any disassembly of...
You're not producing electricity by the looks.
Looking at your meter I believe you only have 334 millivolts, not 120 , 208 0r whatever you have it set on.
That would explain why your gages aren't reading anything.
Where were you measuring 187 Volts?
Are you following the start procedure in the...
I don't see any pictures, did you intend to attach a pic. of you measuring voltage?
It sounds like you ARE getting voltage at the lugs, so what do you mean by "not turning anything on"?
It's not powering your load or the gages are just not "turning on"?
Also, where is your AC board positioned...
Can you further explain where and how you are measuring voltage? Are you seeing voltage at the courtesy outlet?
And you get nothing on any of the gages, volts or Hz?
I assume you mean you have a load connected to the terminal lugs but you are not getting power to the lugs when you close the...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!