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RE: Re: RE: Accessory drive seal leaking bad on cummins engi Chuck, sometimes the adapters are a biatch to get off as are the bolts. Spray the pee pee out of it and use a drift to smack the head of the bolt. Sometimes an impact won't do it. You might have to use a big ratchet and a cheater bar...

Well, it is just a tad over a month away. I know I have a bit of maintenence to do as does hole. I have PM'd and called some guys. Looks like there will be a good crowd so far. Sorry to say, nay on the shirts...not enough dollars to spare. Maybe by the next trip sometime in late '08, early...

Wow, that is extremely cool. There is a magazine called After the Battle. It is published quarterly...a Brit magazine. It has pictures of places during WWII and comparison pics from present time, European and Pacific theaters. You should check it out. I just picked up the latest edition tonite.

Hey Bruce, Which book would that be? I' go out and get it as soon as I find out which one. Thanks.

It looks like an M35 heater. I have a few M151 kits. Bet it can work in the 211 too

I have some NOS hot water heater kits. $100.00 plus shipping.

When I got my truck, it was extremely faded. It was/is a 4 color MERDC pattern. The lines between the colors were distinguishable, but the colors weren't. Did a bit of searching thru the web, and came up with Earth Yellow, Brown, Sand and Black. I re painted it these colors. After looking at it...

Tap has a dial that "clicks" into a pre set position. Continuous is a fully adjustable output voltage. The tap type will work good, but for a finer adjustment, the continuous is better. I forget what the def of tap is...it's been a while.

Yup, maybe a cable rusted up, or the linkage/bellcrank rusted.

I agree with Jason. A mig will work on most things and not warp the product. 75/25 shielding gas is the way to go. You can also do aluminum with it with a wire and gas change. 220VAC is best, but there are some good 110VAC units. Stay away from "tap" type welders...like the kind Home Defect...

Water based paint! Inspectors say that is OK 8)

I think it is just plain ol 3/4 pipe comming out of the filter head and reduced down to 3/8 pipe. Leave the reducer in the head and get a 3/8 street elbow..3/8 male on one end and 3/8 female on the other, and get barbed fitting for the 3/8 pipe. Ever thought of using synflex plastic hose?

Still no luck on the flash supressor, but here are some pics of how it is comming along. The work was/is being done by students. The whole thing was needle scaled and sanded. Primed with a poly urathane and is being shot with a waterbased paint by Cardinal. Right now, just the nooks and...

RE: Re: RE: Re: Fuel Economy of Alternative fuels I run a mix of gas/diesel, with a bit of oil on a regular basis. I get around 10 MPG on long trips, 9 in the city. If there is too much gas in the mix, it gets hard to start and runs funny at idle...it lopes like it has a failed ICV and the...

Got an extra flash supressor?

It's stout too. I have been bushwakin' a bunch, and it has held up nicely. I usually come back with creosote bushes wedged between the holder and bumper.

Here's what I did. 1/2 inch EMT, two EMT beam clamps and two EMT clips. Brazed a 1/4 inch washer in the bottom of the tube for draining and brazed a 1/4 nut on the side of the tube to hold the flag staff. Took maybe a half hour..and a beer..or two :wink:

I have an exploded view, but it is in a paper TM. I will scan this afternoon.

There is supposed to be a thrust washer between the gear and trailer tongue. If the rebuilders have two thrusts on the gear, it won't go up far enought to latch in the travel position. Nice trailer, looks new!

I have run across a few heater kits for the MUTT. Thought they were for the deuce, but, they aren't. Anyone interested? 1979, New, old stock. I opened this box only to find not an M35A2 heater kit, but a Mutt kit :cry: All hoses are soft, paint is clean, all the brackets, ducts and defroster...