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Yes 5-279X will work.

Bushings I wouldn't worry about. U-joints should be greased every 3-5k miles. Replaced every 15k miles on the high angle drive line trucks. The rear shaft for sure anyway. They are cheap and easy to change - don't risk a failure. You'll be looking for a new truck. The speeds these turn at the...

The truck pictured has Michelin XML's. Very dangerous. You need new tires on that immediately.

Yeah it's all in there.

I think it's a confluence of lifelong obsessions and experiences in industry and military. Have you sent me a thumb drive for TM's and tech info? Most of this type of information is buried in the GB's of data I've amassed and the "skill" is being able to search all that data and knowing what...

Huh. Yeah they do appear to be different. The cross is there in case the bead lock shifts - so it can't block airflow. These are the correct valve stems according to the TM - Haltec AMG4: https://www.haltec.com/pc/Standard-Bore-Double-Bend-Turret-Valve-p3250.htm...

Those look the same as what I used. NOS military versions. :unsure:

You don't need to buy overpriced, plastic, tiny "RV" windows because our boxes are not plastic and fiberglass crap. The "RV" windows have rounded corners to prevent the plastic skin from cracking at stress points. Not an issue with our all aluminum construction. My windows are custom sized...

I wonder how many could still exist... how many were even made. The Crew Protection Cab for the HIMARS was fairly short lived.

I will be firing out my walls similar to Third, but I sprayed it all with Lizard skin and that stopped a TON of the thermal bridging. The interior skin temps went down by 20 degrees. Well worth the effort IMO. Also the stock windows are (unfortunately) total garbage and will sweat also. At...

That's absurd. I love it. The commanders hatch is pretty useful actually. Being able to access the roof without ladders.....

My 2008 M1079 A1R has 4 leaf springs in the front. If this turns out to be workable - it would be easier to just torch through the spring and let it unload and then it should be trivial to remove.

Lucky you! Didn't even have to pull it yourself!

The glad hands on the front of the truck used for towing - Service brakes are blue, Emergency brake control is red. The dust covers have vents and those MUST be clear or the brakes will lock up and refuse to release or be lazy in their release.

Had not considered attempting that. Obviously the coil over assembly is stupidly heavy and that spring will need some containment to attempt removal. Move very cautiously in taking them apart. I look forward to hearing your results.....

It's not a simple problem. You can't just swap back to the shocks used on previous A1 trucks. The shock tower uses completely different hardware and the towers are huck bolted to the frame. Not to mention even finding "new" FMTV shocks. They were made by (near as I can tell) General Kinetics...

The former wetland (now superfund site) near the factory that made the M38A1 rubber still looks like the surface of the moon but hey that rubber is SUPPLE! :ROFLMAO:

This is the kind of overlooked item that wears out engines and shaft seals in a hurry when you are bombing down dusty back roads and overland trails. The original air filter to pipe boot on my 2008 A1R......

ECO hubs makes everything better. The birds chirp louder. The food tastes better. Even the women are more attractive. Promise.

NO. Additives are essentially all Snake Oil. You have no idea how they will react with the base oil and additive package. If it's not in the bottle of oil already DO NOT add it. There's no such thing as mechanic in a can. This is probably a result of multiple factors, but rear main seal...