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At least you can see colors...

This reminds me of an unrelated story. While camping out at WE-FEST (a 3-day country music outdoor concert type thing), some "DUDES" were trying to jump start a Cadillac CTS with their $50k+ Toyota SUV when some friends and I walked by. We offered to help, but they were a pack of jerks so we...

I would avoid self-tapping screws directly into the tailgate at all costs. After you go that route, it's a real PITA to run electrical for a license plate illumination device. There are many ways to skin the cat, but this is what I did with mine...

Is that a direct drive unit or gear reduction?

When running after warmed up (the glow plugs are not cycling) mine is about 1/8 into the red. I've checked with voltmeter and the system is at 29.2V.

That non-conductive property means that you can slather it all over multi-pin connectors without worrying about shorting them out. And that's why dielectric grease is my new best friend :-D

Nobody's said it yet? Ok... I will. You should consider doing the "doghead starter relay modification" that is a sticky at the top of the CUCV forum.

Nice Tetris on the recovery rig.

Yes, the blue wire is the fusible link. There are actually 3 fusible links that go to that same terminal on the firewall. You should check all three of them to see if any are blown/melted.

Excellent break-down! I followed this procedure and discovered that, when disconnected, the + wire from the alternator had 0V potential between it and ground. I traced the circuit and found a melted fusible link -- actually three melted fusible links. Replaced them and now I'm good to go.

Pulling off the rear battery negative post would be the same as pulling from the front battery positive post, as they're directly connected together via the "dog bone".

I've got the same (or similar) problem, so I just happen to have the -20 TM open to the troubleshooting section. From page 2-59: 6. GENERATOR LIGHT REMAINS ON OR TURNS ON DURING OPERATION (ALL EXCEPT M1010) Step 1. Check engine idle speed. (See paragraph 3-25) Step 2. Disconnect connector from...

Well, it's official: I am a perfectionist. My rear plate install took way, WAY longer than it should have but I'm finally pleased with the results. I made the mount out of a 1x10 plank (I think it was pine). I drilled two new holes in the rear bumper. A hole was bored out on the back side to...

That, and I bet there's a whole lot more SELLING than they put on TV. Selling stuff online would make for a pretty boring show.

I just figured out what my "SIZZLE" sound is. It's my glow plug relay. I know that's what it is because I left my key forward in the "run" position, the relay engaged, the wait light came on, then I waited for the relay to disengage. I waited because my batteries were a little undercharged...

I think that's normal... i.e., marks from when the part was originally machined.

I would check Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market .

Velcro strips were likely for MILES gear. Really expensive laser tag that never really works quite right.

I would leave the bus bars there because they aren't hurting anything. You could run accessories back there (e.g., a power inverter) or you could potentially relocate a battery to that spot if you need room under the hood. If you look around the forum some guys have made use of them for things...

I think you're asking about the rifle holders and radio power bus bars?