Search results

EXACTLY! I once had an 802 that acted similar, had new batteries in it and would crank ok from the dead crank switch, but just click and disengage from S1. Turned out the battery crossover wire had chaffed against the bottom corner of the block and pretty much killed the right hand battery.

First thing that comes to my mind is weak batteries, may sound odd to you, but I've seen similar results before when the batteries are weak and the cranking relay doesn't receive quite enough power to stay closed because the starter is sucking up all available amperage, resulting in the relay...

Going back to the fuel filters, The original filters were Fram C1125, which are 100% correct, but becoming difficult to locate. The Wix filters will work, but the hole in the center of the filter is smaller and requires you to either remove the 3 winged "centering" device that is pressed onto...

Let me look at home tonight, I have the entire radiator and end panel and I removed the tank at one point, so I would have taken the sleeve off when I removed the tank, perhaps it's still attached to the metal fill port.

Well.... don't count your blessings just yet, just sitting there you only have a static little oil with no pressure. Once it's running you have pressurized oil running into the filter as well as through several passages that connect the block to the cover including the remote oil pressure sensor...

Oh, I see... the small details make a big difference in diagnosing. It sounded to me like you put it all together, then found the spring from the front crank seal and also noticed a leak.... assumingly coming from the front cover based on your explanation. So your current problem is the side...

Without that spring around the crank seal it will definitely leak. That is most likely where your oil leak is coming from. If you're taking it apart anyway, why not replace the seal rather than put the spring back on an old seal? Throw in a new seal and a new cover gasket and be done with it!

I thought we went down this road already, but does the breaker still pop even with the fuel pumps unplugged? If not, one of the capacitors on your pumps is probably shorted out. Like Guy suggested, overcome 1 issue at a time, fix the switch, then move to the next issue.

Yup, sounds like a switch issue. Seeing that you were getting 24V from the switch to the cannon plugs originally, I would try cleaning the switch before condemning it. Get some good quality contact cleaner like Deoxit d5 , disconnect batteries and spray it into all the holes in the body of the...

So these are all 806B's, you may want to add that to your post's title.

Why would you need to replace rods? rods would never change, the bearing thickness changes when the crank is turned undersized.

You'll be pleasantly surprised at how much of your house the 803 is going to power. You'll be able to wash and dry clothes on a hot summer day while you're chilling out with the AC cranking!

That circular spring is part of the front crank seal. It goes around the lip of the seal to keep a little pressure against the crank snout. Not sure if you replaced the crank seal or not. If so, hopefully if came out of the old seal. If not, take it apart and replace 78 ft/lbs is probably the...

Looks like its performing well. Typically you would want to start it at more like 25% load then progressive increase the load every 15-20 minutes or so and work your way up to 100%, burning off any carbon buildup in the process. Looks like you chose to just hit it with full load + right out of...

Well, that would be nice, but the TM shows 5 bolts and nothing else. I've replaced a couple cranks before and don't recall there being a dowel pin, but I could be wrong, only one way to tell for sure. If the crank ends up being damaged, I have a couple spares in my parts piles.

For $300 you can't go wrong! even if the crank is broken you're still like thousands ahead of the game!

Oops, I see you created a new thread for your machine. Like I mentioned in the other thread, It's not a single bolt. It's pretty much just like any other car engine. 5 bolts through the flywheel into the flange on the end of the crank. You must have one of the 3 issues listed above. Bolts...

I've used that exact brand of electric brake conversion on a trailer mounted MEP-005A with the air over hydraulic brake system, it couldn't have been easier to install! Fit it up on the back of the front cross member. it simply ties right into the existing hydraulic line coming off the original...

If you were measuring 24V at the cannon plug with the switch on and none of the pumps were running and then you put 24V to the pump directly from the battery and both pumps ran, then either the cannon plugs weren't making a connection or you have a bad connection inside the control box that is...

Also, be aware that if your fuel tank is more than about 3/4 full the Auxiliary pump will not run at all, assuming that your float switch is functional. The 2 others should have power in either switch position.