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In the case of the machine I worked on previously, every single jumper was missing. No way that happened by accident. There are at least 2 different AM/VM switches that were used and the one I was dealing with had all internal jumpers ( I believe some others may have external metal bars bridging...

Don' take it apart yet, just probe the screws where you see the yellow bars to verify if they are connected internally. ( you can barely see an internal copper bar in the terminal if you know what you're looking for, but it's foolproof if you use your DMM. IF by chance you find 1 or more missing...

Scoobyshep types 10 seconds faster than me... :)

By cleaning the filter and blowing air through you have only done 10% of the job. You have to remove the funny clip, take out the check ball assembly and then knock out the plunger and spring assembly. 99% of the time if it's not clicking it's because the plunger is gummed up and unable to float...

Sorry, I'm talking about S6, the AM/VM selector switch. any missing or incorrect connections, as well as bad connections inside the switch ( dirt corrosion etc ) can cause inoperable and / or incorrect readings on the load meter, as well as false overload warning lights. The yellow lines show...

Or perhaps it really does only have 45 hours on it.... because no one ever used it, because it's been problematic since day 1, so it sat around doing nothing for years! Everyone wants the super low hour machines, but I'll take something that has been used a bit and proven over time over the one...

Sorry to back track, but has the load meter ever worked for you? If not, you should also check all of the internal jumper connections on your switch. At one point I worked on a 802 that appeared to have the correct switch installed but it turned out that NONE of the internal jumpers were...

If it hasn't been run in a while and you have 24V at the pumps as Scoobyshep mentioned, the internals of the pumps are surely gummed up and stuck. They are 99% of the time pretty easy to disassemble clean and be good to go again. If by chance you still have issues I usually have rebuilt pumps...

Even when you know what you're doing mistakes still happen! I recently tested an AC reconnect box from an 003 I was selling to a fellow member. figured easiest way was to hook it up to my 003 I use for backup power which is connected to my shop and house. 1/2 way through hooking up the power...

Looks good, but I have to say anything that can gravity drain ( leak ) always scares me for some reason. Hopefully this is somewhere close that you see it daily. Although simply keeping the valve closed when not is use should eliminate 99% chances of failure. Only other thing I'd keep an eye on...

With 6400 hours on it, it looks good, I can still see cross hatch marks in the cylinder wall. Out of curiosity, I personally would pull off a couple rod caps and see what the bearing in the top half of the rod looked like as far as wear. I'd also remove the oil pump pressure relief tube and...

Every time I've ever taken a rack out I removed the whole thing by taking out the pivot pins ( held in by little spring clips ) never had much luck trying to get the dowel pins out by themselves. If you end up in a mess, I've got a couple 803 racks in my parts stash, send me a PM if you end up...

My question is why are you test running your 803 in the house? do it outside! ..... rofl

A load is a load, unless it's an unbalanced load, then it's more of a misleading load... :) causing inaccurate load meter readings. Either way will work as long as you use approximately the same load on both legs and as mentioned above, make sure your wiring is up to par. I personally like to...

Last time I got one it came from Ebay. I think I found it by searching for a White 298 gasket .... not Mep-005, but try both ways Also try Hercules 298 Here's the rear main...

Think I mentioned this a while ago, but FYI on the coolant bottle cap, the black caps off Walmart brand motor oil ( Super Tech ) also fit perfectly on the TQG overflow bottle.

In the way of what?? You may be old, but you still run circles around 99% of us here! :ROFLMAO:

Very strange that it won't come out nor slide down as Guy suggested. Keep at it, the aluminum tube does adjust within the black mounting collar. If oil doesn't help try lightly tapping on the black tube, then try tapping down on the aluminum center tube, careful for the wires. Once you get it...

If you have the rear cover removed you can disconnect the 4 wire plug and jump the float switch to check it. ( note, the pump doesn't run when the tank is near full ) If you jump the float and still don't have power at the aux pump, the float control module mounted to the right of the fuel tank...

You should have 24V when both probes are in the plug. Sounds like you have no ground connection in the plug... time to consult the schematic and see where the ground comes from in that plug.