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Can you snap a pic of what you coated? Wonder if it would work good for under the fenders and inside the engine compartment.

Re: RE: Overheating for the third time Depends. 20 degrees is alot if it is at 230. A half gallon of coolant won't make a difference unless it was 100 degrees outside. Best advice, make sure the gauge is correct. Electric gauges are known for malfunctioning. Use a known good mechanical gauge to...

Use a registration service.

Not to pee pee on you parade, but the bearing on the 2nd journal looks wiped too. A good rule of thumb is that the condition of the rod bearings determine the condition of the mains. Also. if the upper rod bushing is a babbited type, it too could be damaged along with any and all other bearings...

If anyone wants it, I too have it in pdf.

It's all made up, just gotta put it on...i'm lazy sometimes.

Here's what I did, kinda on the same line as emmado22, but, I made my own bracket with a piece of flat stock and some spacers. As for the front, I made a bracket.

RE: repainting I did mine with a rattle can and still do. Actually, I think yours looks fine as is. I wouldn't do anything to it. Astiff brush will take most of the GL chalk/crayon off. Just run it.

Just got one out here for 300, has a bit of an oi leak after 600 miles, but it is easy to fix.

California...we're different.

Air shift t-cases are around 250-350 . Just do the swap. It will take a day to do it if you are bacanicaly aclined. The only other thing you'll need to add is the switch/light and some air plumbing.

When I do it, I start with a 600 grit, hit it with an 800 and finish off with a crokus cloth. Make sure you turn the engine over to get an even amount of strokes at each side, I like to give it a 1/2 turn then a 1/4 turn and then another 1/4 'till it's good all the way around. Use no oil, it...

here ya go.

Does it have individual cylinder heads? If it has to come out, it will only happen out the top. Are there still parts available for the engine. I wish you wer closer, i'd like to check that out. If you need polishing advice, let me know, i've cleaned up lots of journals.

thanks Mike, shot an e-mail to them.

Yes, it's on both sides. All it is, is 1/2 OD rod bent into an L kinda shapeand a couple of straps. You can see it in one of the pics posted above...#003. I can measure and draw a diagram tomorrow if you like.

The American Military History Museum is doing a resto on an M42 Duster AA vehicle and is need of one, flash supressor for one of the barrels. If anone knows where there might be one, or has one, please PM me or, contact Craig at, http://www.tankland.com/ I will post pics of the resto as it...

RE: M35A2 Roof Bow Storage Thank you for the kind words Kyle :oops: . I fired off a PM to him and, he is registered on the Yahoo group for the SCMVCC. Hopefully we can hook up.

Gammagoat1 is correct, but, i'd check other thngs first. Make sure the throttle arm is going all the way back to the idle position, take the linkage off...not the arm bolted to the f/p throttle shaft...and see if it changes the idle. When it starts, cold, is the idle normal...around 600-650...

I don't think you will be able to remove the piston from the bottom. If you could drop the rod and piston down just far enough to expose the wrist pin, you could remove the rod from the piston that way and not disturb the ringpack. On some older engines, the upper rod was bolted into the piston...