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When I start up my truck, I watch my voltmeter and listen for the 'clunk'.
My glow plug relay makes a muffled, but very pronounced 'clunk' that is audible in the cab when it opens/closes the connection, so it's very easy to tell by that alone. Also, I can watch the voltmeter, as it should react...
The M1028s are supposed to have a limited slip unit, whereas the M1008s do not.
But if he's going to buggy it, then he'll probably put a locker in it, anyway.
FWIW, I picked up a wrecked M1028 through GSA, scrapped the hulk, and plan to sell all the usable parts that I don't need.
I've had a Die Hard Platinum PM-1 in my Tacoma for just over a year, and it's awesome.
Love the hours (literally) of reserve power for playin' music at the bonfires.
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I've been capping all the openings with a glove and a zip-tie to keep any critters from getting inside.
But I guess the coolant trapped in the block migrated a little during the engine removal...
:oops:
Don't mean to threadjack, but I experienced a similar no-start today, so hopefully I can add to the discussion.
Like the OP, I was getting 12v at the diamond block at the firewall, but when I turn the key to the 'run' position, none of my warning lights came on and the voltmeter indicated...
Here's one I made in conjunction with the diagram by M1075, the TM, and my own vehicle.
Any corrections or additions to the unknown slots (with the slashes through them) would be appreciated!
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Since we're talking rebuild kits, anyone have experience with the one from Sky Manufacturing?
It's supposedly all Spicer parts... Wanted to consult the forum, though.
Coincidentally, there was a data plate and some warranty stickers in the door jamb bearing the last six of the truck's serial number, and indicating that truck had been overhauled to "Limited Depot Standards" at Tooele with a date of 8/90.
Thanks again, CARNAC!
[thumbzup]
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