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The easiest is probably to take a magnet to the case. 205s are not aluminum. Or, look at photos of the two and compare to what yours look like. 205s also came with skid plates, and have been filled with ATF, so those are not good methods for finding out/guessing which kind it is.

As I recall, those factory inlets are way outside the radiator area, so there shouldn't be any interference unless you mount the charge air cooler partially in an air dead zone.

Since they say that you're only as old as you feel, I could be your grandchild, General Hood.

Wow, that sounds neat. I hope you get that working right, patent it, and make enough money to pay for getting rid of those Unimog parts.

You should've kept that 272, from the sounds of it. And the Duster...which is likely worth 10 times what you sold it for. Okay, so I'm used to air operated brake valves, and you are now the proud owner of similar looking hydraulic ones, but infinitely more complex. Surely there must be a...

Hey, that's some interesting stuff you have pictured there. What the heck is it for?!? Okay, the treadle valves I'm familiar with, but those hydraulic(?) gizmos. I have a 727 in my Postal Jeep, of all things. It was actually factory, behind 232 Sixes. Now there's a 300 transfer case behind it...

Hey, don't knock the PowerGlide. They're the choice of drag racers now. But it surprises me that an SS could come with a six banger. Okay, not really. Few things surprise me anymore. Well, except for me surprising myself, frequently.

A flood of SSs, huh? If they're '70 Chevelles I'm in. Even if they have electronics.

You might get it to work out, maybe. With any luck he won't charge you shipping, too.

Last I heard, people were paying upwards of $450 a piece...to get rid of them. But do try contacting Scott at Expedition Imports. He just might buy them.

Haven't had that issue, yet, except for when enough air leaks prevented it from working. But when it does happen, it'll become lever operated.

Glad to hear that. I think I'm allergic to adjustable wrenches. But maybe your good tool selection should be augmented with a pair of calipers - or at least a tape measure?

I sure hope that by then you have ditched the adjustable wrenches and will use the correct tools for the job.

Are you sure you really want that rubber boot? If so, someone found them for sale several dozen posts back, at a mere $3XX.00 if memory serves me.

I'm not much help, only being able to comment on number three. If that rust bothers you, brush/grind most of it off, then with paint POR-15 or the rust inhibitor of your choice. That axle won't rust away in our lifetime. Okay, for number 10, either get a few friends together for the bed removal...

Yet.

Yeah, I suspect that General Hood would try to sneak off with my HMMH instead of the parts SEE. If for no other reason, the HMMH can raise things better than a SEE can.

Okay, okay. I'll trade you for one of your SEEs. Maybe I can learn to live with wasps, manipulated wiring and flawless paint? And I am looking forward to your assessment of what's left. Based on what's sold recently they're reaching the bottom of the barrel - and oddly enough, the prices aren't...

If you ask them nicely, they may even have the complete gladhand/hose "air stealer" set. Truckers use those to gain access to air, but they work just as well in the opposite direction.

Thanks, Porkchop! That one looks not just similar but darn near identical. Guess that means it really was a production trailer...of some sort. Sure grateful I don't have the rust issues that guy was faced with. In my case, a light spray with JB-80 got the brake mechanism to move. Hopefully the...