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Unfortunately each color and 4 point vs. 5 point is going to have different NSN's and they don't list them all. Could get into Fed-Log and use mastercraft's cage code to try to figure them all out. Also unfortunately - it says "Call for more info!" and I've done that - the people on the other...

That is the center seat. It mounts to the back wall of the A1P2 cab and the seat bottom folds up leaving a standing area for the gunner. All the NSN's are listed on Mastercraft's Defense site: http://www.mastercraftdefense.com/

In my career as a professional mechanic and shop owner I have seen plenty of harmonic balancer failures - more than I have fingers and toes to keep track. GM included. The rubber fails and as others have pointed out the rubber ages and it's harmonic properties change - just like the ATI...

I daily my truck and while there is a slight but noticeable increase in power as it warms up (it doesn't take long - especially with the block heater), I don't have any resistance to rolling down my slightly inclined driveway. I could go out there right now and release my parking brake (running...

Those are CTIS armor. Yes they will fit. I reinstalled a set on a one of the 4 trucks I've converted to ECO hubs.

@Lostchain - just take those numbers to McGuire Bearing in Portland and they will probably have them on the shelf.

Just pull them off and read the numbers. Any bearing shop can likely match them up. You will probably need a press to change them out if they are serviceable.

I wouldn't spend a dime to fix the 100a alternator. They were grossly undersized for the application. Any money spent toward the charging system should go toward upgrading it to the 260a alternator or one of the other options that are out there - the 200a HMMWV alternator, or a commercial 24v...

If you have 28v at the regulator E terminal and the 28v LED is off that points to a bad regulator according to the Niehoff troubleshooting docs: https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG14_uid252021119472.pdf Pretty common failure item on the 100a alternators.

14v is pulled from the center of the 28v windings so in general you can't have 14v if the alternator isn't making 28v. Where are you testing the 28v from?

You just drain them and refill them like any other differential.

You should NEVER be working on asphalt on a truck this size unless it's an emergency situation. And yes a spreader plate is required in that case.

19" vs. 31" height - and USA made for $60 more. No comparison IMO.

I wouldn't trust anything from HF to hold up a 20k lb truck. The military uses these for FMTV's: https://www.ccmilitary.com/products/heavy-duty-jack-stand-7-ton

You just need the alternator and bracket and longer serpentine belt and it will bolt on - very easy - takes less than an hour typically. I am working on getting a few of the alternator brackets and I do have a tested 2016 model 260a for sale so I might be able to set you up with a swap kit.

A few years ago a bunch of crew protection cabs showed up at auction - before the FMTV's were popular and being seen regularly at the auction. The HIMARS trucks were some of the first to be upgraded to the A1P2 armored cab specs and so these first gen cabs were removed and auctioned. The crew...

Yes. The CTIS controller has overspeed warning and protection. If you exceed it's programmed speed limit in each mode it will first warn you with a CTIS Overspeed flashing light. If you continue to ignore the warning it will automatically inflate to the next pressure mode. You can change the...

I have one of the 24v Chinese mini-splits mounted to the Environmental Control Unit cover plate between the pods on the front of the box. And I mounted a 120v Dometic Cool Cat unit inside the driver's side pod where the ventilation fan used to be (enlarged the opening).

Sure. It's a first generation HIMARS crew protection cab commanders hatch:

A1+ trucks the CTIS get its speed pulse from the CAT computer.