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Well, most importantly, the 20 Volt charge is not because of the dual batteries. The 20 Volts in (what appears to be) a 12 Volt system is due to it being charged with 24 Volts. As far as the wiring goes, it'll be happier with a higher voltage as it means being subjected to less amperage for a...

Spent the day driving to Denver, picking up affordable wheels and a 12-inch bucket for the FLU419. I'll try to regain some thinking capacity tomorrow. Can't believe that nobody with intimate knowledge of this stuff (of which there seems to be many on the CUCV threads) has chimed in. Between you...

That's if GovPlanet didn't beat them to it.

To avoid any future confusion, especially when ordering parts, keep in mind that this SEE was apparently rebuilt in 2005, but was made in the late Eighties or early Nineties. Do have your friend double check that it's actually an issue with the clutch assembly and not something external with the...

Glad to hear you got it worked out! Despite me.

Since the Volt meter in an M1008 isn't showing numbers, I don't know what the actual voltage is when turning the engine over while the glow plugs are on. But I do know that it shows a little bit higher than the meter (still 24 Volt) in my converted M1009 did at full charge. In both cases, the...

They likely would, but slowly. Unfortunately, your batteries are not at the 12.7 Volts they should be (if fully charged) so in that sense you have what amounts to a poorly charged 24 Volt setup, which probably would start. Maybe you actually have a 12 Volt conversion, but it's still being fed 24...

Admittedly, I don't remember if you have two alternators or not, but from the readings on your Volt meter it looks like you do. Or your one alternator is seriously over charging. Either way, my main concern would be to stop that over charge and worry about what voltage the starter is later...

I'm going on (bad) memory here, but there's very little that is on 24 Volts on a CUCV. Actually, I think the starter is it. Oh, and the Volt meter. When I converted an M1009 to 12 Volts, all I remember doing was changing the starter and removing one alternator. There was a bit more to the...

I searched for something ag/industrial for quite a while, but failed (something I'm pretty good at) to find something suitable. Had I made it to SEMA last year, chances are good that I would've found several options, but I failed in accomplishing that, too.

It'd be quicker to hook the batteries up in series, wouldn't it? Then, if they have indeed survived intact, you can buy a 12 Volt starter and begin the conversion process. And if you do change the battery wiring, do make sure that all the leads are where they're supposed to be. Otherwise you can...

Well, there's technically only a 200-lb. margin per tire on a 16,000-lb. SEE, but I've been assured by the owner of Interco that there's a healthy margin in that tire's load rating. I was primarily concerned with the big lateral loads they can be subjected to when scooting the rear end around...

Sounds to me like you're running a 24 Volt system, but have the batteries hooked up for 12 Volt. You're having 16 Volts on an Optima at rest which is one too many for when it's charging. If my guess is correct, wire those batteries in series before they're cooked.

I have one set of 39.5x16.50-20 Pitbull Rockers on 2-inch widened wheels, and am about to mount a set on 40x13.5-20 Super Swamper TSL II tires on stock 20x11 wheels. Like peakbagger, I have no need for more ground clearance, but wanted less contact pressure (with the 16.50s) on one SEE, and...

The Michelins that come on a SEE are 12.5R20.

Yup, that looks like the real thing. A bit pricey with the strainer attached, though.

Ah, I had no idea that's what the SEE was designed for. I thought it was for the big sandbox. Then the Michelins being the tire of choice makes even less sense to me. You may not consider yourself an offroader, but it sounds like you do more of it than the majority of decked out four wheel...

I thought the cap is not vented, and that's why there's a vent on the tank. Either way, I've seen fuel caps for sale, probably on Expedition Imports' web site. Finding a seat may be a bit trickier, especially if they are FLU specific.

Peakbagger, here I would respectfully disagree. Completely. For driving over rocks and punji sticks I would much rather be on bias ply tires, with their inherently better conforming carcasses and stronger sidewalls. Radials have their place, and while the SEE's Michelins aren't a good example...

Right you are. I use hydraulic fluid, engine oil, vaseline, or whatever is handy to lube the rods. But for cleaning them first, WD-40 actually works.