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Old thread, but I didn't find good info when I went to 2. I have 2 6tl flooded and they are not enough to start my truck-2007 A1R, with functioning ether, -12F. I will either be upgrading to 4 batteries or maybe AGM versions for more cranking amps.

Looking around at similar alternators to ours, price really isn't that different when everything taken in. Then have to deal with different mounting, the converter for 12V and then have the LBCD. If you don't need high output it can be done cheap it looks like (under $1K)

Just another data point, my 2 6tl flooded (770ca) didn't have enough juice to start my C7 at about -10F. Supposedly agm are better cca at over 1000 for most brands. I may end up with 4x agm 6tl to deal with WI winter.

So when are you going to unveil your new super secret alternator setup? Curious minds what to know!

-6 model on govplanet https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Parts-C.E.-Niehoff-N1313-6-Alternator-California/11038467?h=5000,q|Niehoff+&rr=1&hitprm=&pnLink=yes

That's for the 100 amp option, as GeneralDisorder mentioned, looks like there is another one. Look at the 1616 diagram, alternator case is different.

I'd like to hear about the N1313 alternator. Dual volt 300 amp. While no images of brackets, I did find it listed in the HIMARS TM

Yep that is orb-4, although 7/16-20 is also a common thread diameter/pitch so lots of options are out there.

I have 2014 tires so not the worst, but plan to get new ones. Any experiences getting actual new ones and not military take offs? I've seen military pays about $850 each, would love to get that price but I've not seen anything close to that. I've heard people supposedly talking to their local...

Tried to start the truck today after it's been cold soaking all night and is -9°F. The two 6TLs just didn't have enough to get it done. No engine preheat and 15w40 oil sure made it more difficult. It would crank for about 10 seconds before voltage dropped too low and starter kicked out. It did...

On my 2007, the governor was set a little low so I would get intermittent CTIS operation. That would be my first area to check

Oh I have, also why my head isn't squished to a pancake ;)

I really prefer the shipping container over the fiberglass sandwich stuff. Much tougher, don't have to worry about branches, can mount all sorts of stuff to it due to the strength of the structure. Strong enough to be rollover structure. Steel also seems to just fit better with the military...

Top 4 corners are directly bolted to the box though a thermal break, bottom rails lag screwed to plywood floor, along the 18' length at the top there will be tensioning bolts that go through the foam. Will be very structurally strong and minimal disturbance to the insulation.

This is the abs unit. I did also have to replace my CTIS controller, so it's always possible that plays a role in this.

There are no fault codes(checked with wabco abs software )I can literally stop that light blinking by switching to highway mode, the second I go to any of the other modes the light starts blinking again. I did verify ABS functions perfectly in highway mode, then in any of the other modes maybe...

Must be due to my ABS module programming. The light stops blinking the second I hit HWY mode on CTIS. From the Wabco ABS troubleshooting manual:

I do this stuff for a living and you both make valid arguments. While this is not the space shuttle, we also lost a space shuttle because tech level people thought engineers were over thinking stuff. The truth is somewhere in the middle. I was just speccing seals for an autoclave test chamber...

Been working on habitat prep, doesn't really make for interesting pictures. Will be putting up wood paneling with an unitrut structure on the inside where I can attach all cabinets, beds, etc. Making for a very strong and modular setup. Took it out on snowy roads for the first time today...

Could maybe use the abs modulators for this?