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Or a trackhoe.

I just picked up 7 395's in the 70-80% range for $1260. I picked them up in Hooks TX from a tire dealer there. They will also ship via freight. Don't know how much that would be though. PM me and I can give you the guys #. Edit: I see your in Georgia. Take a look at...

I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune. My best regards to you.

My guess would be what others have said, either bead locks or run flats in there. You have an engine lift?

You will need to flip the hubs if you use a3 wheels.

Disconnect the fuel line at the tank and add a ball valve.

Not so much with the silicone boots. They have a slick texture so they want to slip out of the groove regardless. Getting the grove clean and dry does help a lot. If the silicon boots get any oil or grease on them they refuse to stay in place.

Hmm, I like the idea of having the tire in the stock location. Repo, is your truck still 6x6? If so, can you post up some close up pics? Cause on a bobber the rear axle is also usually moved backwards giving more room.

If you don't mind me asking, where in LA are you from?

Go to home depot, Lowes, etc. And buy the giant bag of plastic wood clamps, the kind that sortof look like pliers. There should be all sorts of different sizes. The small and medium ones are perfect for this. As you get the boot where you want it add a clamp. Slowly work your way around...

Thanks for posting those pics gimp. As far as keeping the "tit" in place I can't really think of a good way. I say this because nothing holds it in place. It just slides in. As long as your gentle and pull the control rod out as strait as possible you should be fine. I mentioned it because...

That would be a lot of fab work but, if you succeeded it sure would be awesome.

Was your truck running before the fuel shut off stuck? As far as removing the rod its pretty simple. When you remove the shut off cover you will see the arm attached to the fuel control rod. There should be a bridge piece with 2 screws and safety wire going through the screws. On the bottom...

$10 to your door. And I had the tm for the injector pump handy when I did my o-rings recently but I forgot which one. I'll look that back up first chance I get.

I have been tempted to get some square viton cord of the correct size and give that a try. Rtv works, but if there is an easier and less messy way, I'm all for it.

I'd stick it in. That cat is barely broke in.

Probably the fuel control rod o-ring is bad. This o-ring went bad on my truck, which contaminated my engine oil. Its actually a simple fix. I have assembled a kit that has this o-ring plus the 2 large ones that seal the HH. I also include a piece of gasket material to cut a new gasket for...

Hmm, drillers mud you say? There are 2 types of drilling mud. Both of which would be VERY bad news inside of a fuel tank. The first type of drilling mud is basically bentonite clay ground up into a powder with a few chemicals added. Upon contact with water this stuff turns into a wad of...

Only a deuce driver understands the joy of dangling out of the driver door by the hammer loop on your jeans that got snared on that dang parking brake lever.

There are a few things to remember about the air-o-matic. They are a steering assist, not power steering. They are also not made anymore....well sort of. The manufacturer makes a run of them once in a blue moon. Parts and rebuild kits are made in the same way. Meaning parts can sometimes be...