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Before you go and buy a new fuel solenoid, have you tested the old one and tested the wiring going to the solenoid? I'm having a little difficulty following exactly what is happening. When you turn the switch to crank the engine, does it crank over but will not start until you lift up on the...

I've got one of those same transfer switches hooked up to 3 of my machines. I've got a shed set up with an 002 and 003 and an 831. Only reason I have the synchronizer installed is that I had 2 sitting around and thought it would be a cool ( yet unnecessary ) feature to be able to switch between...

I couldn’t find a compression adapter for this engine, so made 1, basically a 17 mm rod with a 1/8 npt port to connect to a gauge, worked real well. Nice work, your adapter looks exactly like what I made too. Pretty much a "Dummy" injector with a threaded hole for a compression gage. Only...

Correst Guy, P50A2 should be connecting from the +post on the starter solenoid to the +Pin of the slave port. The schematic shows it connecting to P50A10, but in reality, both wires should be on the positive solenoid post.

P55Y2N should be one of the fat white wires. It's the negative that goes over to the slave port on the front of the frame. In my picture above it's the wire with the faded yellow ring terminal attached under the negative battery wire, ten it goes down behind the fuel tank and over to the slave port.

Did your other 2 posts regarding your battery wire issue get deleted? Looks like they are both gone. You can't see the Positive post on the starter in this picture, but maybe it will help show the battery, slave port and control box feed wires. At least you can see the negative side... positive...

Yes, the TM has a typo! It should be about 2.250" I think the TM should have said 2.2" not 2.02"

Not to mention that an 005 and 805 are 30Kw not 15Kw....

You have no idea how many sledge hammers, ground rod pullers, ground rods and aux. fuel hoses I had lying around here. I ended up scrapping a bunch of the rod pullers because it just wasn't worth trying to sell or ship them. Gave away probably 10 sledge hammers. Occasionally I'd find a printed...

Check the CR1 diode in the left rear corner of the control cube. I think it's the 2nd one up from the bottom?? If that diode is blown you will have no power at the panel. I also assume by little circuit breaker you mean the round black DC circuit breaker button to the left of that AC select...

An impact wrench will do the trick. what do you plan to use for a puller? Those blower wheels can be on there extremely tight sometimes. I had made a small block of 1/2" steel with a 1/2" fine thread hole tapped in the center, with 2 thru holes for bolts to go into the 2 threaded holes in the...

You can scroll through here and see what others have used. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802a-mep-803a-filters-and-parts.186068/ The thing to watch out for is the gen is 24V but 80% of the gages out there are 12V. Try to find a 24V 80 PSI gage, to make it easier. Beede makes a lot of...

Ha! Fantastic. Glad we were able to figure that one out. Hopefully a new oil gage and you will be 100%

I haven't done an 803 in a while, but the last one I did I used a piece of 1/4" thick rigid plastic for the spacer ring. I made it just slightly bigger than the diameter of the float and rather than a circle it was more of an oblong triangle ( helps get it through the opening of the tank easier...

If wire 137T is on the Batt. stud on the alternator, that could very well be causing all your problems, plus a few others you probably don't even know about yet!

Sure, so Let me tell you how to figure some of this stuff out. Open the oil filter side door, that schematic inside the door can be a life saver, Look for G2 near the upper right. It will show wire 137T going to the excite ( left ) side of the voltage regulator mounted on the back of the...

I wonder if it could be possible that you alternator is shorted internally, sending power backwards through the field excite wire, back to S1 while it's running? You could try removing the Field wire off the alternator and see if anything changes??

Here's my thoughts so far. Somehow you are getting power back feeding through either the oil pressure switch circuit or the engine fault control circuit. Whatever path it is taking its bypassing the E-Stop , Dead crank and S1 switches. This is going to take a little studying of the schematic.

And once you manually press the FSS lever, the engine dies, FSS pops out and does the panel power shut off at that point?

Wow, what a deal! Essentially you paid for the injector and got 30 additional OEM parts for free! Can't beat that price!