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Agreed. Got charged 5 grand to replace a head and an IP on a CUCV.....come to find out they stuck 'the new guy' on it with no experience and just racked up the hours.....now i question if they even used the right head...

K.I.S.S. Turbo = something to break Single tires = no redundancy CTIS = more opportunity for leaks etc

I used outdoor foam/carpet.... UV protected and waterproof...

The peel and seal by itself was a huge reduction in NVH, but the padding and carpet took it to the next level. Also noticed it was cooler during hot days and stayed warmer longer during cold days after shutting off the truck. It was no miracle, but it was noticeable. The 5 ton cab is pretty...

They also make a product designed for roofing, that's essentially a rubber backing, with reflective foil, and adhesive.. It's usually only a couple bucks a roll, and comes in strips.. I've done a couple cars/trucks with it and it really helps reduce the noise/vibration and increases the...

Depends. They go through it and replace bad parts, usually, along with applying any pending modifications (MWO).... Mine included a crappy tan CARC paintjob over 3 color camo..

Or the methed out chick that swears you're with the CIA and demands to know your serial number (her words), then waits until you go into a gas station to try and jump onto your truck to see what's inside and find the 'serial number, you're required to tell me'.... :sigh: I bought my first...

My experience.... I picked up an M934 with 11k miles, 755 hours, and only 150 miles after an RRAD rebuild.... It had been sitting for 7 years..... Dead batts, 1 flat tire, 1 dead headlight. Brought batts to life, filled tire (held air), replaced headlights. Replaced ALL fluids, then drove it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-kwM5_KLlM

https://youtu.be/OAm-N_PbREE

I plan to switch all of mine over to 1/4 turn ball valves with long (ish) handles....and locks...

I noticed when I went to to cut holes in the bumper for lights.. rather..a member here helped me out when I was on a road trip...

What's confusing is that there is only a 12V feed to the ignition switch....nowhere to get 24v from... The only place I have 24V at is where its supposed to be...which makes it that much more confusing.... I'm thinking that relay may be failing or about to fail...but if 24V is somehow...

All you need is some Nicaruagan Contras jumping out of the back!

I know that.. Problem is, I have a meter on the starter output from the SWITCH which is supposed to be 12V (yellow), however that 12V yellow is showing 24V on crank...

Working on replacing my ignition switch with 900 series knob style switches ... Got everything figured out except can't figure out why I'm getting 24V from ignition switch starter output when cranking....

So....I got muh handy dandy meter, TM, and some civvy diagrams... I isolated the ignition, accessory, and starter wires.. I'm getting +12v on both red wires at all times... Brown is accy... Yellow is start...BUT....I'm showing 24V on crank....shouldn 't that be 12V? 12V to operate the...

Removed a shelf in my M1031 to fit jerry cans in there...have to remount it about 6" higher and paint the area.. Then I will not only be able to store 80 liters of fuel but using a super siphon I can empty a 5 gal can in less than 2 mins....unattended.....

Those look awesome, just like mine! U.S. embroidery and all! Keep up the good work!

If you use a high grade marine sealant, the bond/'waterproofness' will last longer than the truck.... Don't be afraid to drill, just be aware that it's a double walled roof... long bolts are your friend..