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Watch it doin... Cabells definition of gander means you better be bringing a paint brush! :mrgreen:

:ditto: ( Just in case you wanted a second opinion )

The above ..er..member? ( though he seems to think he owns the site ) doesn't speak for me As mentioned check around, I've seen them on E-bay, incase you don't already know the T in R60 T means its a 10 micron filter which is fine for a primary filter but for a secondary ( final ) you might...

Chris Its good to hear from you and to know things are going well for you and family.This site is a hobby not a business so no apologies nessasary if folks don't like it here then there are other ( lesser ) mil veh websites they can go visit ( and stay there )

Karl I would first say check/replace the stat and then while its apart pull the bottom rad hose and take a garden hose and flush the block and radiator out from both directions and see what kind of nastys you get out ( also open block drain back by starter ) from there decide if you need to go...

Before I got my torque mutiplier I would only tighten them up with a budd socket and bar to which if I had a flat on the road I knew I could get them off again to change it

:ditto: But if thats the case than you have the early dash panel ( 1951-54 models ) later B1 models ( 1958-68 ) had a different lights on the panel which were the same type as on the m-35's, so if yours is a 1963 you have the older model panel which is no biggie if your not going for model...

I have the HF cheapo for my deuce also but the torque mutiplier has its place especially if the inner and outer nuts/caps are stuck together

John I feel your pain $$ I've been looking for a solid green cover myself, I find tan and camo but no solids

and here also :) ( six square and 6 round type pads total )

I put a mechanical guage my deuce also, 15-20psi at hot idle, 60psi+ at cruise. I haven't heard anyone having problem with one here on the forum but have you checked your engine oil pressure regulator valve?, its located on the block next to the starter. Theres a remote chance the bypass spring...

Jim Alans article was on his long gone website "MV Central" this was going back almost 12 years

If your getting 6ohms means the resister is letting to much voltage to the coil/windings, this has been a ongoing problem with imported coils, if this was me I would ad a external resister to the dist power lead this will give lower voltage to the coil to which it will run cooler. This symtom...

I made a living cleaning non blended diesel fuel on MotorYachts and had great results with Power Service "Diesel Kleen" for stabilizing fuel for long term storage. Diesel ( and gas ) will last indefinitely in a oxygen free enviroment which is why the fuller the tank the longer fuel will keep...

Tom Think about it Do you really think that big metal dist thats attached to a hot block and also has hot air blowing on it from the radiator fan is gonna be kept cool by 2, 3 ft long 1/8" od" lines

YES OF I stated how to check the ohms in a internal resister coil in my previous post. In 14yrs I've only seen one of these with that original setup, I have a e-mail in to a buddy to see if he has a picture of this setup Also you guys, they are VENT lines NOT cooling lines that run from the...

OF There is a ballast system and ( as I mentioned ) its internal, early M-series ( 1951-2 ) had a external ballast resister which was stacked under the coil ( early non resister coils were shorter and sat ontop of the wafer type resister in the distributor ) these were superceded by the taller...

Miltary coils have internal resisters The ohm resistence on your coil should be between 10-14ohms anything lower will cause shorter coil life ( coil runs hotter ), if you do have low resistence then you can ad a external resister to bring it up ( to check resistance put ohm tester leads across...

:ditto: ;)

:ditto: