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To expand on this... If you read the LDS troubleshooting manual, you see the reason we can run waste oil is because of the subtle difference between these Hypercycle engines and normal diesels. We have a puddle of fuel in the piston cup that has a fire on top WAAAAYYYY before the main...

LOL... True. I just can't think of a more exact way to get accurate numbers than nice laser trapped timeslip. But you have a point about the shifting being a variable. Time of acceleration from say 1500rpm to 2600rpm in a single gear would work as well, but getting an accurate number would be...

Are the improvements to the D enough to justify swapping out the C? I know some guys really want the C for the whistle... I could care less. (I'm going to muffle her anyway) Also, the advance in timing from LDT to LDS, combined with tuning the main fuel and droop screw on the LDT to LDS specs...

I was wondering how the methanol % experiments were going. I've been bench racing up a system, and wondering what the max safe meth load I can run is. (I need enough to keep it from freezing in Michigan winter weather... -20F is not uncommon in Jan-Feb.)

But... These multi-fuels have some eccentricities in how they burn. I want to make sure 30%meth won't shake the engine apart. jwaller knows his stuff, so I'm listening. The formulas I'm finding seem to indicate around 20% by mass water to fuel. Here in Michigan I have no choice but to find a...

Sure... but I'm a poor college student... Give me until spring. I'll build it with 4 GM calipers, the biggest cheap/common rotors I can find, and an unboosted S10 master cylinder. We'll see what happens.

A gentle flush with toilet bowl cleaner might be what you need. disconnect the hoses, drain the AF from it, and push the acid into it to sit for about 20 minutes... then flush with a garden hose in both directions. It will clean out rust, crud, and bars leak scum... Just the heater core, not...

Have you considered trying to find a factory heater? I think you might have about the same cost.

Congrats!

As I understand it from my reading here.... The Multifuel engine is already very "advanced" in it's timing, as part of the multi-fuel function. The fuel is injected in a non-atomized state onto the piston and in the "cup" at a very early point in the cycle. The flame is ignited and the fuel...

So, if they are touchy... which would make sense given the mechanical advantage they have on the wheels... splitting off 2 more calipers and running 4 discs might work to increase braking surface, as well as calm the rate down with the extra volume requirements. At worst, a few proportioning...

This actually looking more plausible from what I'm seeing these 4X4 guys do. Those trucks are way over 3000lbs... some I would guess a whole lot closer to 10k. And none of these guys are running more than 2 discs, as SERVICE brakes. We can do this... we might need more discs, but I'm really...

One massive one, two slightly less massive, etc... We have 8 locations to play with. It's just a question of complexity/cost/functionality. If these offroad guys are stopping 3000lbs (conservatively) at 70+mph with one Mazda rotor and a single toyota caliper (so they say). It would seem we...

Actually, you could do both.... Use a caliper from a Lincoln Versailles 9" rear, or any of the other old calipers that had a built in cable brake. Most of them are kinda dinky, but for just a parking brake, with a 6.72:1 advantage, it should be fine.

Parking brake? Nope.. wouldn't work. Every hydraulic system bleeds down over time... no version of "line locks" is going to hold for very long. As secondary/emergency brakes they should work. If these guys are running them at 3000+ RPM on offroad trucks with even half the load we have to stop...

If the driveline can take it on acceleration, and during engine braking, it can take what relatively small amount of force a couple sets of pinion bakes could apply. But I get your point. We are trying to quickly bleed energy from 3-7 points on the driveline, that are spinning at rates from...

If you are going to do this, it would be on all 3 axles, and not used except as a single full application once the primary had failed. Worst case scenario... you're hauling 10k lbs and towing another 10k.. down a mountain... your stock brakes fail do to line rupture. If the system is split...

Someone already built the system with pinion brakes as emergency/secondaries? Which method did they use, separate pedals or linked?

Sounds perfect to me. I'm planning on 395s and one of those kits myself.

So, are you noticing a power increase from the water, or does the water just keep the engine happy with a turned up pump? Any mileage change, power gained/lost to the injection?