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8-12 inches sounds about right. The wood is taking a compressive load, and the steel is taking a tensile load. So don't skimp on bolts between the two! Each cross plate should be about 4" wide 12" long, and welded, not bolted, to the angle. Bolt through the plates and the wood, with decent...

That sounds perfect. Just weld the base plate to the angle, and bolt the board in. Simple, probably strong enough to load a car.... ... a small car... ...but I wouldn't try it...

Square tube would be far better. The angle iron would lose most of its capacity laid out the way I think you're talking, unless you topped the "open" side with more steel and created triangular tube. Even then, you would still need some sort of tread area between the two that securely located...

After the base shootings in recent years, I would say they have a bigger threat INSIDE the base than out. But, guards would probably get sick with boredom if they didn't have some nit to pick at.

If you used 2 per and welded cross bars of flat every 8"-12" or so, you could put a 2x10 plank on the top with bolts. The structural risk is that angle iron twisting under load. But for that little weight you should be fine.

Front differential... I'll wager you have a spider gear or pin that is in chunks. As you turn the corner, it is locking up the axle, binding, and releasing, as the damaged gear turns. When you're going straight, you don't feel a thing, right? Nothing on breaking? Test the brake in 1st and in...

I'm going to check out that build... the hyraulics and the wheel building especially!

PM... gun stuff. Plus it would de-rail the thread.

Nope... I won't know until the end of the month if I will be able to pick her up the first week of November, or if I have to wait until the first week of February. I'm trying to get creative with bills and work to get her home as soon as I can, but she may be waiting for my winter tuition...

I know... old thread. But I figured search and read before duplicating. #1. Install the heater kit I'm getting with, but not IN the truck. #2. Blast and paint. She has 0 rust... but the paint is peeling off in chunks. I'll be lucky if she doesn't start rusting this winter. #3. pyro/boost...

:ditto:.... The 100 post requirement also limits the number of really under-informed posts. It forces people to get a feel for the rules, and learn the basics before fouling up the "Working" part of the board. I understand where you're coming from, but that's my opinion. It also lets the rest...

So, you worked the air out with the drag link off? This looks like a nice mod to pair with hydroboost dual-circuit brakes.

Welding would be the easiest way to modify the factory pitman arm for optimal length, obviously. If I do it, I will be quiet about it and make certain it's done right. However, using a chunk of quality bar stock threaded for the tie rod ends and secured with jam nuts should be far stronger...

That 9" arm will reduce the box's mechanical advantage, and effectively "Quicken" the steering ratio. I think I understand your logic. I have the machine shop of a modest college at my disposal... I could whittle one out if I have to. I can make a drag link as well with two tie rod ends and jam...

Don't sweat it, I don't think anyone else has done "Dazzle", and if you're going for the urban Mercenary truck like I think you are, it won't look anything like mine. Mine will look more like a WWI or WWII battleship than any kind of normal camo M35. I can't wait to see how it looks brother...

Gringeltaube, do you have either part numbers, donor truck data, or measurements for the drag link and pitman arm you used? This question is open to anyone who has done this mod. I can get the box for <$200 from a junkyard, but it's out of the truck on a shelf. I will have to find the other...

Ok... so why are some headlights mounted high and some low?

Use a 5-ton pump? If you find one, see if they have the reservoir as well. This is my 2nd or third modification on my list... I'm curious where everyone is getting parts from, and at what cost. If the Boyce kit is twice the price, I'll just piece mine together.

I have been doing more research, and it would seem possible to use Phosphoric acid in the pressure washer via the "soap" port ... unless there is a reason the paint would react with it, that would seem to be the best method of preventing flash rust, and actually building a hard surface for...

Ok... you are talking my colors.... I'm doing a "Dazzle" urban camo on a Blitz Black base. I'm in an urban/verdant AO, so I may add a touch of green. But as far as I know, there are only a few M35s in those colors. I called dibs!!!! I can't do mine until spring, so you have that long to be...