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Well that should work, sounds like the contactor in the EESS box is bad at least

That looks like a fairly high output alternator, it should not have been wired through the EESS box but directly to the batteries, the EESS box is only marginally capable of handling a 60A alternator. You might want to pop that EESS box open and looksee inside.

You also do not need to start a new thread for every item that comes up on your project, we are all reading your original thread.

Do not do it before replacing the missing CDR valve, you have an open port into the intake, one little nut, washer, etc OR water gets in there you can wreck the engine.

OK I'll play, plus one for williamh Possibly a medical emergency. I rode for decades without a helmet so I can be as stupid as anyone and I would never pull out of my driveway in a Humvee without wearing seat belts, in fact the first thing I do is buy new factory seat belts not knowing what...

The one you are referencing looks like it is not the fording one, if you do not plan on loosing your mind and actually want to take your HMMWV swimming the "regular" one is all you need, much cheaper also.

More fuel https://www.nbc-2.com/article/driver-ejected-humvee-crash-trees-cape-coral/60801150 https://www.fox4now.com/cape-coral/police-say-old-military-humvee-drove-erratically-before-slamming-into-tree-on-surfside-blvd-cape-coral

Make sure both mounting bolts are grounded.

It is SO funny to sit back and watch people come up with their idea of what "happened" with absolutely no idea of what the actual circumstances were. :LOL:

You have likely broken something like a half shaft or drive shaft due to the fact you have the transfer case in HL or LOW and have gotten the drive line in a tremendous bind. Crawl under the truck after making sure it is secure and look at all the drive shafts and half shafts closely.

Welcome to the SS forums!

You should invest in a set of gauges, it is the only way to properly maintain the coolant level in an A/C system, they are very cheap at for example Harbor Freight and good enough to get the job done. If you had 100psi in the system then the compressor and condenser fans should have tried to...

Welcome to the SS forums, someone did answer him 6 years ago, (post #4) this is a very old thread answering now would do little good.

I forgot to ask, you do have a working trans light yes? it should come on when the IGN switch is turned to run and go out when the engine is started.

The knock could be a bad injector, that is a common symptom of a bad injector, break each line loose one at a time until it stops, changing the fuel filter is a MUST do. Your temp gauge is likely off, they are not known for being very accurate, get a laser thermometer and shoot the thermostat...

If you cannot find the relay you could put the diode directly across the switch, it certainly would not hurt anything even if there was no relay or if the relay already had a diode.

It does sound like you need a new switch, at least you have a M998 so it is much cheaper and easier to deal with than the 4 speed guys. I don't know about the click you are hearing, if you have an ammeter you might stick it in the leads and measure the amps going to the brake lights before...

I am a little confused, I thought you said the lights were on all the time unless you stepped on the brakes? There is no relay the switch drives the lights directly Yes the switch can ohm out good but not carry a load.

24V coming in and out of the temp switch (or jumping the leads) is trying to turn the fan OFF, it is a fail safe system so removing the 24V from the Cadillac valve turns the fan on, when the temp switch OPENS and the 24V stops going through the temp switch is when the fan runs. So...

Well I finally got the chance to take the tires into Beeville to get balanced. It was raining today and the other days this week were just too nice not to drive the DuraVee around. So three tires came in under 5OZ and two were over 15OZ, the best one as far as weight and the visual appearance...