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After re-reading a little I have a few addition comments. Guy- I agree that it looks like the IP may have been changed at some point, the only few I have seen all had black painted pumps, this one appears clean , not painted. Also, I would consider that smoke Gray. The TM notes IP timing...

Same here.... ZERO need or desire to ever parallel it. ( not that I have anything to parallel it with anyway... )

When you loosened the lines, were you getting fuel spitting out of each line after you loosened them? It sounds like you only noticed a difference when loosening one line, did the machine just stumble a little or would it have died if you loosened that one line and left it loose for a couple...

I didn't read the entire thread above, but I've done a few SA460's in 016B's and 701's , it worked perfectly and took all of 10 minutes to install! If you need assistance I should be able to recall what I did, but I do remember it was super simple to install.

Yes, the top right square that says "Loosen here?".... Loosen it there! ;)

No worries at all, its better to be apprehensive if unsure than take a risk of getting hurt. The amount of fuel expected is very very small, mere drops and it is under high pressure, but because the amount is so little that the result will be just some minor drips or a small spurt. You will not...

I'd start by cracking the injector lines like Guy suggested. I think you may have a cylinder not firing ( the smoke being the unburnt fuel from that cylinder ) If you crack the lines and get one that doesn't change the engine's sound then we need to hone in on that cylinder. Also try dead...

Humm.... so are you saying the starter cranks for a couple seconds, then the sound of the starter changes and engine cranking stops, but the starter still makes noise? ( and starter is still spinning )? I think we were all under the impression that the starter motor shut off electrically after...

While you're in there, make sure the spring loaded linkage arm ( with the ball and socket ends ) connecting the IP to the governor arm is ok. The linkage should pull itself together ( shorten ) and be able to stretch apart ( lengthen ) only when the stop solenoid pushes down on the IP throttle...

Have you opened it up to see how it looks inside? Before you buy one I'd suggest opening yours, it's basically a very simple magnetic solenoid inside so unless it's a solid block or rust, you may be able to easily clean it and get it going again.

With the gen running under no load, at 60hz, 1800 RPM, the slightest finger touch on the linkage should result in a big change in RPM. If you move the linkage and aren't getting much of a change, or the linkage feels sticky etc. there is probably something sticking or broken inside the IP. I've...

Yup! Parttarget.com was the one I used too! Now for my next trick... If you find yourself looking for Hydraulic items on Ebay / Facebook, etc.... try misspelling it intentionally as "Hydrolic" and you'll be amazed at the unseen deals you will come up with and how many people can't spell...

On the Temp sender, that should be the correct one. When you poke around with the NSN# 5905-01-392-8825 you will find a hand full of equivalent PN's associated with it that aren't listed in the TM. including 88-22322 and 02094-00 ( which is the one I sent ) Now Google 02094-00 and you will...

If you determine the temp sender is bad: Not only is it occasionally hard to decipher the Electrical Engineer's item descriptions some times, but when you search for parts, if you don't find it right away, get creative and try other search criteria, other search engines, Try the PN, then try...

Just so that there is no confusion, what Peter is saying is that YOU should crank no longer than 30 seconds by the switch and if it doesn't start let go of the switch, let the starter cool and try again. The starter is not going to stop itself after 30 seconds of cranking if you are still...

I believe ( or I thought ) what he meant is the machine is shutting itself off ( electronically ) due to a ( false ) Low Fuel indicator. If that is correct, the issue is somewhere in the low fuel circuit, most likely either the float or the float module. I don't think he is saying the machine is...

So your 120/240 is working but you get nothing on any leg when you switch the AC select switch to 208 3 phase? And is this verified with a multi meter or are you looking on the volt gage on the machine only? Also, if going just by the volt gage on the machine, are you switching the AM/VM switch...

I see the Hz gage is pegged up on 65 Hz, is it malfunctioning or is the gen running excessively fast? It does sound like the external potentiometer is either dirty or going bad. At first that non-standard AC volt gage along with the L3-N AM/VM switch setting and 240V reading on your DMM really...

Ah, ok... that makes all the difference in the world! I was originally under the impression that it was working, but then quit after the fuel line replacement. Please move forward with checking the fuel flow into and out of the metering pumps. My hunch is that you will find that you have fuel at...

One critical piece of info I don't see listed here, was this machine running and then you replaced the fuel lines and now it won't run, or is this set new to you and you have never seen it run??