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Thanks for that info! When I get a chance to pursue changing the valves again, I'll definitely look into the 580C vs. D setup. Of course, by then I might've managed to master a 3-stick.

Skidpad, according to the decals inside, my HMMH spent time getting refreshed at the Red River Depot. If I give you the S/N, would you please check if it's on your list?

Skidpad, looks like you got a grease gun, which I didn't. On the other hand, I got the hose for airing up tires. But as Bikers33 points out, it'll most likely be more efficient to use the glad hands. You can buy a setup already made for airing up tires at a truck stop, if you don't feel like...

I'm guessing that the backhoe removal/reinstall won't be all that different than on a Kubota BX25D (which is tiny), just scarier. One thing I have yet to figure out is how the heck to store the backhoe while it's off. Will probably build some sort of parking stand for it. Ordered a quick attach...

On the SEE, there are two on the boom and one on the dipper. If that helps.

Welcome, Skidpad. Here is my free advice (and you know the value of such, right?). 1) I'm running Valvoline 15W-40 diesel oil, mostly because Napa often has it on sale. 2) I need to find out how to remove the backhoe, too, so the front mounted snow blower can use that hydraulic circuit. Off...

Hey, don't take my word for it! Poked around and arrived at 580C, but that doesn't mean it's correct. Or that all SEEs had 580C hoes.

As I recall, there is. Just figured it'd be easier to find parts if looking for the more common civilian version/model designation.

Admittedly, when I looked around on the interweb, I searched for Case 580C, not M35C.

I looked around for 2-stick versions a while back, and as I recall there were several used regular setups available. Can't remember what the going prices for those were, however.

Mr. Rat had several dishonorable discharges in my parts SEE, aka turds. On a brighter note, it looks like the honorable General Hood will be able to help us out with wiring charts, so hold your wire, Ron. It'll be easier to fix what you have left with a diagram.

Good work, Ron! You have noticed than the tach and some other gauges don't work until the alternator charges, right? I always keep it at a low rpm until the oil pressure comes up, then increase the rpm to get the gauges working.

Exactly, Ron. You were trying to fix "a set of wires". No wonder it failed. Much like my day, come to think of it.

Time to Google "champagne on sale". Edit: By the way, have you checked the ground for that right rear light? Mr. Hood, I hope it's the right side headlight you got to work. Unless you need illumination of the hoses for the loader, which is about all the left one will do.

No logical place for a tunnel where I live these days - although, I suppose I could build a hill easy enough. At the old homestead there was a perfect hillside to have a tunnel in, which I wanted really badly for fire proof and cool storage. Since I didn't have a backhoe (or a tunnel boring...

Easy for me to say since I haven't had any real electrical issues (yet), but I've removed the fuses one by one, bent the tabs a bit to increase tension/contact, and then douched the fuse holders with JB-80 (aka Twice as Good). So far everything that needs to work does. They start, and the...

And it gets even better. I unwrap my Prius (well, it's an electric John Deere 'Gator, and that's as close as I want to get) so I don't have to cold start something to go up to the barn and get the scissor lift. Fiddle with it for a while, eventually find all the right switches and buttons and...

I sure hope you didn't tell them. Not when both of us are trying to buy a cheap parts SEE.

Yeah, that hurt. And probably will be brought up again. Especially since I mentioned using it for this very task a few days ago.

Congratulations on your accomplishments! And I completely agree with your assessment of the blackout lights. The one on the loader arm was especially irritating, blocking some of the little forward view there is.