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The CTIS valve on the spare tire uses a SOLID bolt and nut for storage to hold the seal washers and keep out dirt and debris. That is NOT the banjo bolt that is needed when installing on the truck for service.

Hose parts list: Condenser parts list:

Appears to be a rubber washer. 6mm thickness, 40mm OD and 12mm ID., I bolted mine up solid without those.

Belt is 1/2" wide, 55" long. Compressor to bracket bolts are 10x1.5x110mm Upper to lower bracket are 10x1.5x30mm Condenser to frame - what you suggest should work. I grabbed what I needed from my bolt bins and didn't pay attention to size. Crankshaft pulley bolts are 10x1.5x85mm

It looks like about 6 feet of the largest size, 8 feet of the intermediate size, and 12 feet of the smallest size will likely do the job. It's hard to measure accurately once it's installed and it depends on where you want to locate your drier.

Not since before the Afghan war. The latest HMMWV's coming out of depot are 6.5 turbo's with 4L80E's that will do over 80 MPH. The HEMTT A4 based chassis like the PLS, the LET, etc will all do 75 MPH or so with their CAT C15's. The JLTV will cruise at 75 MPH all day long. They found out in Iraq...

Yep. That's the FMTV A2. The military did order some. Remains to be seen if they will replace the A1P2 or if it will be something else.

Need to know the year of the truck.

Honestly the whole idea and the appearance of those welds isn't confidence inspiring. Welding on castings takes a very controlled environment and in general isn't advisable if you can avoid it. Pre-heating to avoid hydrogen embrittlement and then salt annealing to ensure you don't have any...

Get rid of the Michelin MayPops as soon as possible. Those tires are all way beyond useful life - the military stopped using them more than 10 years ago so they are all much too old to use.

You can't do that. You're not envisioning how this system works. even if you moved the welds 90 degrees and put the spiders back in - with the spiders in place and the outer gear welded the entire unit would become solid and unable to rotate. The truck wouldn't move at all.

Right - I know how the system works. I'm trying to get @coachgeo to understand what we are asking - what's keeping the inner gear from sliding out off the nut roll pins? I don't think that would work. The roll pins are not that long and the gear would walk out off of them. But I suspect you...

How is the inner gear retained on the spindle? The inner gear is normally held in place by the spider gears and held stationary by the splines on the spindle and it prevents the spindle nut from backing off by engaging the roll pins protruding from the face of the nut.

What does the data plate on your dash indicate? Do you have a serial number? Post pictures of the truck and any data plates you can find. We can tell a lot about it from how it's equipped. FMTV's including the M1078 were still in the prototype stages in 1989. Stewart and Stevenson wasn't even...

Nothing wrong with being curious. Having welded plenty of diffs as a young man with more 7018 and electricity than money for lockers I can tell you it will work till the welds break (throw some bolts or chunks of ready rod between the gear teeth and weld them in) - or maybe they won't break -...

That still wouldn't do it - the inner gear is free-floating on the splines. You can't weld it since that would make hub service impossible. And if you shave off the spiders where they contact the inner gear/nut retainer then nothing holds the inner gear into the nut. You need a way to delete the...

I will go through my manuals again and see if there is anything leaping out at me that's relevant but I am not locating a Caiman TM in my collection. I would suggest that you start with a few phone calls to either the DLA directly, or to your Ohio LESO state coordinators. Someone at some level...

Hhhhmmm - not experiencing that as a supporting member.

Exactly. Waste of time to even consider wrecking a bunch of parts by welding all over othem when a tested product is available to do it the right way. The hubs pay for themselves in ~3500 miles just in fuel savings. If you can't afford to do it the right way then these aren't the trucks for you...

I updated it with specs.