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Got them last year from eBay for about the same price one pays for the single IR lights.
Did a little thread on how to convert the IR portion to a second clear light and was staring at them for 10 months before getting around to mounting.
They have a base that mounts to the truck and the whole...
Mounted and wired up the lights. For now, they come on with the high beams. When the switches and diodes come in, I will add a LED flasher so I can use them as "emergency lights", wig-wagging, as well. :)
Blackout lights are hooked up as well.
Not sure if this guy is a member here - curious about his build. I have a soft spot for Driptroits.
It looks like a Deuce chassis with an old International cab. Sounds good, though! It is not completely blasphemous, either. The 6V53 powered the M113 for example, so it did see military...
I needed to fabricate brackets for the armoured double headlights I recently converted to all LED. While the single lights are ok to mount, there simply is not a good spot for the big, heavy double lights.
After doing what the signature of one of the members here suggests ("every repair job...
If it was my truck I would probably do two things before I rip the airpack out:
- drain all air pressure, remove the splash shield and add air tool oil to the big chamber; in the usually recommended location (small 1/8 hex plug; see black arrow in this thread...
Now your friend needs to decide if he wants to spend $90 and a half day or $500 and an hour. Rebuild kit and doing the overhaul vs. installing new air pack.
Tactical Repair on YouTube has two real-time videos on how to do the rebuild. Other than a bit of time it is really not that bad...
m715mike opens another can of woms - and we do not know because we do not know your friend and how much clue he has when it comes to brake systems or the M35. The brakes could be far out of adjustment and simply not generate enough friction to brake well. The linings could be contaminated. The...
Lack of air assist but brakes working would point to the air pack not doing its job.
It can be rebuilt or replaced. Brakes not working could also be a bad master cylinder.
Especially for people not very familiar with the trucks I recommend downloading, reading and following the Technical...
Looks like you are taking your time to check things over before going for the smoke and noise. It is always exciting to wake up a long dormant engine. Glad it seems to work out so well!
Installed the low air pressure warning light that I have had on the shelf for some 5 years. Now I have a bright red light to accompany the noisy buzzer. Not sure why the generator light is in the yellow...was in the green when I came home.
I had a similar issue but it was intermittent and resolved with a filter change....after I had changed the filters not too long before and thought "nah, that ain't the problem!". It sure was.
I got a bad batch of fuel somewhere.
I second the advice to take the troubleshooting TM and go through...
I think the NAPA/aftermarket switches are intended for lower max hydraulic pressures and have been known to fracture; the stock switches on the other hand seem to do that as well. I remember reading a thread about this a few years back. The military started changing them out for air side...
Not sure why yours would be 3 prong but the 7 pin Male plug that the flasher box has (and yes, you do not use all of the contacts) is made by Amphenol and has the manufacturer number of MS3102E16-10P.
I ordered mine from Mouser Electronics but I am sure there are other sources.
Sent from my...
No, do not do that without at the very least addressing the diesel fuel getting into the oil (hence the huge volume you drained). You need to
- bypass the FDC
- change the O-rings sealing the hydraulic head and shutoff
- check or eliminate the flame heater
- check/change booster pump seals
If...
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