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Agreed. I've messed around with these VR's in the past and successfully replaced the transistors and the POT's but other than that you might be better off going with the newer technology the SS member's VR's provide, rather than trying to dig too deep into repairing the original, failure prone...

On the fuel level sensor you are correct, polarity doesn't matter. I usually connect black to what used to be the ground and the sense wire to the red / brown lead, but really doesn't matter and really no point in attaching to one of the mounting screws, I usually just connect with adhesive...

Agreed, you are in good shape to get this done. So follow the procedure in the TM. Seeing that you will have the valve covers off, rotate motor clockwise until the #1 intake valve closes ( 2nd valve from the right ) continue rotating clockwise about another 90* or so until the "PC" mark is...

Just spin the gear, make sure it turns freely now. then push in on the cap where it rides against the cam, it should move in and out freely ( the spring force is tight but you an press it with your thumb ) You could also take out the delivery valve so you can see the plunger movement in and out...

Ok, got it. Maybe I will look into the Firelake units or just keep a constant eye out for another good deal on a used Clean Burn. Since I have radiant in the floor I really should look into evacuated solar tubes, but too many other irons in the fire right now!

Hi Leonardo82nd, you have a different issue than Jayco did. You are getting smoke while cranking so you are probably getting decent fuel out of the injectors. ( or at least some of them ) Jayco had stuck metering pumps and used carb clean in the pumps to loosen them up. On your machine the carb...

Is the first image of the current throttle setting? If so it appears you have the throttle pushed all the way in. Might want to pull the throttle out a bit more and retry. You have smoke, so that means you're getting fuel, but I'm not sure I like the way it's cranking. It sounds a little slow...

I'd agree with your game plan. When you crank the 2007 over, how does it sound? does it spin abnormally fast, without strong compression pulses? I assume you already have a cylinder hone, but if not get yourself a Lisle 15000 micrometer head hone. I've successfully honed these motors up to...

Wow, that sucks! sorry to hear that! I've used them a few times and I think LITD used to use them almost exclusively at one point. Maybe time to rethink.....

Looks great! As an FYI, the Stove Brite paint needs to be heat cured by running the engine at temperature. It will not be very resistant to fuel spills or other chemicals until it is cured. The details are listed on their data sheet , but I learned it the hard way... so just be careful until you...

Sounds like you want to keep the 37's but incase you decide to change the bolt pattern is a standard 8 on 6.5" bolt circle. All 8 lug Ford trucks and vans prior to the Super Duty ( 97' ) series as well as all Dodge trucks and Chevy up to 1999 will fit.

I'm not real familiar with the sheet metal on the 806B but when dealing with broken hardware where you can't access the back side to use a nut and bolt I have often times used knurled rivnut inserts with great success. It actually works well anywhere you are able to drill a hole big enough to...

One thing you can try as a crude test is to put the piston near the bottom of the bore, finish your movement with a slight up stroke movement, so go slightly past the bottom until the piston starts to rise again then stop. Put fluid on top of the piston, something like diesel, HHO or kerosene...

Wow! That's more than a good running low hour 803 on a trailer was just a few years ago! Oh how times they are-a-changin'..... ;)

So how bad is the cylinder wall on the worst bore? It looks pretty bad in the pictures, but I know pictures of cylinders can be deceiving. Do you have large pitted spots that you can catch with your fingernail, or is it mostly just discolored but fairly smooth? The other thing to check for is...

I would leave it on. That way the acetone will stay in the pump body and do it's magic. As a point of reference, does the gear on the face of the pump spin freely or is it stuck, and is the throttle lever free or binding / stuck?

I agree with replacing the original shim packs. I've never actually gone through the process of measuring to determine the correct shims. I have always either replaced whatever came out originally, or if that was unknown I throw 2 black shims back in and call it good and never had a problem...

Check pages 104 and 105 for info on the 2 different starters. In addition to Googling the PN's you can also use "Mep-002 starter" or "Mep-003 Starter" ( not something I recommend in most cases because it tends to lead you to higher priced parts ) Even Onan DJE starter should work. ( be sure you...

No worries, that's why we're here, to help other members figure out how everything works. Go to the TM section at the top of the page then scroll down to Generators and Electrical, then scroll through the generator TM section until you find the 002 section. ( Top of page 4 ) It will be in there.

If you're talking a bad starter, why fool around converting and modifying things? Sure it can be done, but why? You can get a brand new high torque starter for just over $120.