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I agree with Scoobyshep. I don't trust that alternator setup, but maybe it's just because I'm not familiar with it. Aftermarket AVR's can be had cheap. That SX460 is still available ( Chinese knock off ) for $20 all over the internet. You could probably buy 4 or 5 of them for less than the Delco...

Sounds like you have already decided what you want to do for control system, but if things change, I wonder if this gen would be a good candidate for an SX-460 AVR? I've used them a few times on different military gens and they have worked well every time.

Agree with Guy, dismantle the gen head and report what you find, that should easily allow us to determine what went wrong. Either way it's a mechanical gen failure, nothing caused by you.... although you really should have a full understanding of the machine, how to operate it and how to prep it...

Correct, K1 is the circuit interruptor, buried back in the left corner behind the inner control panel back wall. Have to remove the top cover to access it.

See reply #5, the only breaker on the entire DC side is on the front panel and kills EVERYTHING. So if your panel lights work, the breaker has not popped. Check for 24V at the cannon plug for the pumps. Do you hear any of the pumps in either aux. fuel or prime/run position? You have 3 pumps in...

the 802 should be no different than the 803. Having power on L2 while in 240V single phase mode leads me to suspect something is wired incorrectly. It could even just be the wires crossed at the K1 relay. If it appears to be working correctly other than sending power to L2 instead of L1 I would...

Yes it could be K5 relay. Could also be the S5 switch. Start by checking the switch and it's diode.

Excellent news! Keep making progress. Check your oil level now, then check it again after you have run it a little bit. Keeping an eye out for an increase in oil level and the smell of diesel in the oil. If the level stays constant then your umbrella seals are good. If the level starts to rise...

Forget $2200 for that! If it isn't shown running... assume it doesn't! Saw another one Wed. went for like $1800. ran but was run from an aux. fuel source. Missing fuel lines etc. Can pretty much guarantee any 002/003 currently coming from auction will need the fuel tank steamed and sealed at a...

If you can locate the leak, you can fix it yourself with Permatex plastic tank repair epoxy. Should be in the aisle with the silicone and other sealants at parts store. Make sure it's the one for plastic tanks and plastic radiator tanks. Comes with 2 packets of a black epoxy specially formulated...

If you have 24V from the switch, then look for 24V at the bulb sockets. Also check for ground at your bulb holders. If you have power to the sockets and the bulbs are good there is only one other possibility.... no ground. The only fuse ( circuit breaker ) on the DC control side has to be good...

Sorry... Not S1, I meant S5, the circuit interupt switch. As mentioned above, if you hold S5 up do you get power and a green light on DS7 indicator light? If yes, then your K1 and wiring are good but either the S5 ( possibly it's jumper diode also ) is bad, or the overload relay is bad.

I would follow the TM and test the control wires going to K1 from S1. The TM explains how to ( with the gen off ) run a temporary power and ground to activate and test K1. If K1 tests good, check for power and ground to trigger K1. It's a very simple circuit to test. If that fails, check proper...

Once you have it installed, I would hook up the fuel line and leave the returns disconnected for now. fill the day tank and let it drain into the pump housing to push out most of the air and fill up the pump. With the returns connected it can be had to get fuel to drain into the pump body...

Don't pull the shaft out, just put the 2 new seals on the shaft. make sure they are oriented correctly. Then grease them up good like Guy mentioned. Then slowly slide the pump over the shaft. You will probably need to use a small pick or screwdriver to get the first seal started into the pump...

Yes, that copper plated washer behind the well nut is what I cut the notch in. Loosening the tank brackets will allow you to slide the tank over a little to help center the washer in the opening. You can still change it even with it off-center, but it's easier if you can get it more centered so...

What is happening when it's cranking? is it smoking at all? if so what color? How does it sound while cranking, does it sound like its free spinning, or do you get the typical cyclical sound of valves opening and compression etc... If it sounds like it is just free spinning you may have valves...

If you have trouble with the well nut spinning as you tighten it, I always file a small notch in the outer edge of the large copper colored washer, then you can use a screwdriver to hold it from spinning....

Either that or he's using a cheap DMM? I once saw 400+ Hz on a cheap Chinese gen but it was due to dirty power and using a DMM. I thought the OP meant he was reading it off the Hz gage, which blew my mind on an 806! What are you actually seeing on the HZ gage?

Well, the 12,000 rpm thing was a joke, but you guys lost me somehow.... This is an 806a running at 450Hz? what am I missing? Thought the 806a was a 60Hz machine and the 816a designation was 400Hz.? This is an 806a running at 400+Hz? Have the earth's magnetic poles flipped?? What...