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That's a Michelin 14.00R20 XZL, mounted on a 20x10", 2-pc/20 bolt aluminum wheel, having a 10-on-11.25" bolt pattern and (estimated) backspace of 10.5 to 11". So, YES, this should fit perfectly on a M923. G.

Those wheels (and axles) pictured are from the FMTV's. They have a 10-on-11.25" bolt pattern and will fit on any of the 5ton-series trucks. G.

Had those somewhere, but couldn't find that info, so I needed to take some measurements first... I just edited my drawing above. Let me know if you need any other dimensions. G.

Me ? Yes ?, What, where... ?? :-) See if this helps, Joaquín. G.

Was that question ever asked before, here...?:-? I just googled for "1/4" Brass Compression Sleeves Ferrules, For 1/4" O.D. Tube, online" .... One possible source would be this place... They have the inserts, too. G.

:ditto:

You HAVE to leave them out if you want to go the one-piece-wheel route! There is no way you could mount a tire on such a wheel, if it still had a beadlock- or runflat insert inside. G.

Don't know about Marsh but Longs only has (or used to have ) 20x11 shells which they use(d) to build their one-piece wheels. As for backspace I would recommend anything between 8-9 inches. (Front-back tracking would not be an issue since you flipped the hubs.) Basic dimensions for such a...

Recommend using gloves... (they are HOT!) :-P G.

I'm sure you will feel- more then see- the difference. Been there; done it, more than once... ;-) FWIW, I pulled the valve covers off today and measured the actual cam lobe heights, 1) on one 0-hours, rebuilt 5ton-LDS465-1A; 2) one very low-hours LDT465-1D; 3) one LDS427-2 with less than 2...

No preload there!! Should be 0.1-0.3 mm endplay, vertically. Read again on page 10-40, steps 1 to 3. G.

May I recommend some good reading of this excellent thread? Start with post #94, down to post#121. G.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-361-34.pdf Chapter 10, Section I, Pages 10-36 to 10-41 G.

I've had good luck with Hansen Shipping Agency in Marietta,GA. Contact: Ana Villanueva. G.

Glad you found by yourself where the leak originates. Now, to replace that small seal... and don't forget to post results. G.

I finally had the opportunity to visit 59apache's AO and check out this great build, in person: excellent design and workmanship, really; better than what the pics are showing. My compliments, Jürgen!!! Please don't forget to post pics of the jack mechanism you built, which enable this shelter...

It should be a 1:0.79 (O.D.) ratio. Easiest to confirm: put in 5th gear and count 1 eng. revolution to 1.266 prop. shaft revolutions. Most accurate: remove top cover and count the teeth... G.

Gimpy, I hope you put a return spring on the IP's accelerator lever, before starting it? Without it, some engines will run wide open! That happened to me the first time I ever started a new (rebuilt) Multifuel, still in the crate. G.

I'm deeply saddened. We lost one of our best... and way too soon! Rest in peace, Tigger! G.

I bet it does. The only change- or say upgrade- was done at the air-side end. The new part is only longer, incorporating the seal. The OP may be able to confirm that, once he has pulled the bushing out of his other airpack (and that one wasn't that same odd style, of course). Ehh... Rusty, if...