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Been cruising the local truck wrecker and found some goodies; Bell-housing, flex plate and starter for CTD to Allison. Also, off of a CTD/Freightliner set-up, a fullsized WABCO air compressor that bolts in place of the automotive application power steering pump. Cpmpressor in turn has a power...
Front motor mount can be a snap too. Look to truck wrecking yards for one off of a CTD/Freightliner or CTD/Ford set-up. Hint: Wrecked FedEx delivery vans, bread trucks, etc. among others use it. Bolts to the front, not sides, of the engine and has a single bolt hole in the bottom of it's "U"...
Hmmm, How fast can you twist a wrench?
It depends on a number of things. What kind of shop area do you have available, tools on hand, number of people helping or getting in the way, etc.
Motor mounts will need to be fabricated, transmission adaption, electronics (12v Cummins vs. 24v deuce) all...
I'm a died-in-the-wool CTD fan. The ONLY problem I've ever heard about is the the timing case locating pin working it's way out and doing some damage but it's a fix that's pretty simple and cheap if you do your own work. Never had it happen to me personally and that's with around 700K combined...
Click on Tech Manuals on the left column, scroll down to TM 9-2320-361-20 and click on it. I think the info you're looking for is on page 640 of 1209 of the pdf file (manual page 8-66).
Hope this helps.
Size, in this rare instance, doesn't matter. Look at the power some of the built-up hondas and the like put out. In the case of the multifueler, it was built to be, among other things, bullet-proof... but all that extra metal eats horsepower to run itself. The reason to consider tha 12 valve...
I'm gonna do my project deuce in CARC and was wondering who has the best base price for the one part CARC so's I can figure shipping and see what my final damages are. Any suggestions?
Tool: Mine is marked AF-8 and under it M22520/1-01 The selector wheel is marked 12 through 26 Wire Size. The tool is just over 9" long. This is the one you want; I have a smaller version, also marked AF-8, that is useless to me because it won't take the automotive wire or terminals.
Connectors...
Thanks for the kind words. I like trying to make everything look "factory". Also, I stay away from anything but off-the-shelf for replaceables like bearings and mounts and etc. Last trick is to build with a mechanic-friendly approach. Making sure of clearances and doing modular...
Onward and upward for my deuce 4X4 toy. Had a few surprises like needing space to clear m900 series air brake lines and of course, new u-bolts because of the added spacer height.
Here's a look at the rear axle installation. Next comes the front axle change over which should be simpler. No rear...
Mine doesn't have the turret and the only thing I have to do is manually position the depth so that the crimp ends up in the right place. Big thing is to make sure it's for the bigger automotive wire sizes as the crimping tools are also made to do the smaller comm and computer wires.
Excellent advice on the tail end of winch cables. I've seen 'em come off and I've seen 'em come back. None of them were pretty especially since, moments earlier, they had a pretty substancial load on them.
Re remote: Sorry but I have two words of advice for anyone contemplating children... or...
Just added a copy of my -20 deuce manual to the tech library, when it comes up online, look on page 969 of 1209 in the pdf file or section 13 of the manual. Hope that helps. More manuals to come, I've only got about 80 of them to enter.
Picture Wile E. Coyote look on face. There's the first "what was that?", followed by the blinding flash of realization.
You know the three most often heard words just prior to a trip to the ememrgency room? "Hey, watch this!"
Your set screw(s) should be in line with the direction the cable...
I ended up going with an M-900 series transfer case to get the drive shafts on the correct side. I wanted the full air too. Wedge brakes get replaced with S-cam later on although I've just seen an air disc set-up that looks adaptable. A lock-up torque converter may be in my future but right now...
On most there's a hole in the surface of the drum spool, next to it should be an allen set screw(s). Loosen them and the old cable should pull out. Thread the new cable in and tighten the set screws.
Hey Mike,
Email or PM me with some pointers and I'll start loading into the tech library. I've got over 800Mb of TMs. on everything from CUCVs to HEMTTs, several trailers and weaps if you think they're applicable.
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