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I've used the "Better" Harbor Freight trailer ( if you want to call it that ) with the 12" rims and 1700 lb. rating to recover quite a few 003a's and 803a's over they years with as much as 500 miles at a time, Mainly because I've made family vacations out of some of the recoveries and I can...

Looking at the pump from installed perspective on the left side there is a flat head screw with a copper washer, directly opposite the throttle lever, threaded into the base flange. Take out the screw and install a 1/8" drill bit, butt end first and turn the drive gear until the drill fits into...

Once installed, leave injector lines loose and bleed them out a bit. Once you get fuel up at the injectors tighten the lines and fire it up.

Assuming this is the original pump for this machine and it sounds like you took it out without setting at #1 PC first? If so, yes get the motor to PC on #1 compression stroke and put the 1/8" drill bit onto the hole in the pump to align the gear and slap it back in. Remember the o-ring around...

Agreed... Those Chinese gens just run and run... 24/7 for a couple days on end.... then die in the middle of the outage rofl Then, once the power comes back and the stores reopen and restock, you buy another and repeat! :doh: But, yes... cheaper than Green Iron! Just kidding, everyone has their...

Well, hopefully Guy will check the new readings tomorrow, but right off the bat, the F1 to F2 resistance looks like a problem. Those are your Field excite wires which if there is an open circuit , there is no way the regulator can excite the field to create any power.

Ah, ha! if the older brother will work as well, I have a few spares and would be able to sell you one cheaper, if you decide you want to replace it or get a spare.

A little trick on compressing the spring.... I use a 5/8" deep socket with a slot about 1/2" wide cut down the side ( use a cut-off wheel or grinder ) then use a large C-clamp or a large vise and the socket to compress the spring. The hole cut in the side gives room to get in there with a small...

Wow, nope. Looks like you may have yet another version I have never seen. That appears to be a M50 built before American Bosch became Ambac. Interesting that AMERICAN Bosch was from ITALY ! Early on the PSU pump ( as seen in the TM exploded diagrams ) were used by JR Hollingsworth. At some...

Hi Josh, you should be good to go. You have an Ambac m50 not the American Bosch PSU ( Thank God!) You should have a blue ID tag on the side. The PSU has a black tag. It also does not use a plunger guide, it uses a drive pin drilled through the plunger, that is the pump's biggest downfall. When...

They can be tough..... lots of questions get posted here as to why people can't get them off. Simple answer.... Most were put on way too tight and they just get tighter after the gasket swells over time!

In addition to Guy's suggestion of measuring F1 and F2, Maybe a recheck of the 6 winding pairs is also in order. The Wheatstone and Kelvin bridge are probably more accurate than a DMM but I've measured them before using a standard DMM and the readings were fairly close. Definitely not Zero...

What about all the winding resistance readings, should be 3.3 ohms on all 6 and he is getting 0 ohms across all? Wouldn't that have to either be 6 incorrect readings or shorts within the windings?

Ah, as usual, you are correct! P10-A goes to X13A8 ground wire. There is a mistake on page 152 paragraph 2 on the right, winding resistance testing. It says P9 and 10 A-F. Should be P10 B-G with A being a ground! Good work looking at the schematic Guy! Now... back to analyzing Chris' other...

Must be the same thing. I'm looking in the TM procedure and it says P10, and the image on page 159 shows the plugs on the gen head being labeled P9 and P10... These are the 2 main power output plugs coming off the gen head. I'd assume the mating plugs on the AC reconnect box are J9 and J10.

Twist it really hard! eventually it will come off, or shred.... one or the other. Strap wrench or real large channel lock pliers. prefill with diesel before installing new one if you want. It will self-bleed through the return line, just leave the pump running for a while, but if you loosen the...

Maybe I'm reading the numbers wrong, but reading #15 P10-A looks like a direct short, doesn't it? The manual says all readings of P9 and P10 to A-F should all be high. A low resistance on any of them should be signs of a shorted rotor shouldn't it?

Hey LITD, I'll make you a deal.... Grab one and let us know if it will work as-is. If you can not use it in it's current form I'll either buy it off you and machine it to fit and throw it in my inventory. Or , mail it to me and I'll rework it for you and send it back. You can't loose!

If those readings are correct your gen head is a gonner. I can see getting readings that are maybe an ohm off, simply due to differences in meters and resistance in your leads, but all open and shorted circuits would seem to indicate catastrophic damage.

That's good news, thank you for verifying that!