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I DID NOT post the use of USED MOTOR oil. I said NEW motor oil.
Never ever never put crankcase oil from a DIESEL engine into a diesel fuel tank. Even with a centrifuge and 87 ways to make it good you will still be wiping out the hand lapped surfaces of the rotating plunger in the HH. One CAN NOT...
I want you to know that the multi-fuel will run just fine on 100% new motor oil. I recommend 40-50% with "new" diesel fuel.
One is not allowed to toss containers in the trash with residual oil in them so I made a container drain for my mechanic and I get all the new container drained motor oil...
Do not put 100% "new flavor" pump diesel fuel in it
Thing needs to run with a load on it at 1800 RPM. Put homemade Seafoam in it or buy some commercial stuff but use it.
Put a couple of quarts of straight motor oil, cheapest new stuff you can get, into the fuel tank.
The "new" diesel fuel is...
Deuce jackshaft moving
and I have the question of How much fuel have you put thru her since you been working on it?
About all the gears and such...............It is all moving
Put some straight 40 W motor oil in the transfer and transmission cases.
Study your jackshaft...
Muscles to work with and Sticktoitiveness are needed even if nothing breaks.
Cribbing and jacks and big stuff.
Battery backups for commo devices and warm clothes and sleeping equipment in case stuck out there someplace. Lots of batteries for your flashlights. List goes on and on even for...
a little something to read..........
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?140095-Fuel-in-Oil-%E2%80%93-HELP&p=1734887#post1734887
Basically 5 ways to make a milkshake.
Could goto HD and get some toluene, an ounce for 10 gallons, at 120 octane and some Naptha and a gallon of new good old 30 W motor oil, dump it in the tank and run truck all over at 1800rpm, see if it begins to clear up. After the new filters. Worth a try, cheap, can't hurt. It like Seafoam...
So there was not the stalling problem before you filled up the fuel tanks.
No note of which filters were not replaced leaving empty cans.
If the filter canisters were cleaned out then no bad stuff would get to the booster pump and HH.
We are trying to protect the lapped finish within the HH...
Master cylinder must be vented to somewhere, even right at the cap even. I vented mine to the dashboard, but that is another story. If it is NOT vented then that MC will fail in short order.
and..Yes the vent for the MC WAS tyed into the vent for the fuel system by original design on M35A2.
One may e-mail really large files thru google drive right from your email (over 20mb) if the recipient has google they can read it and download it. Sender gets to pick who may view it.
I looked around for some pitchers for you
I have been wrong before, one time on a Tuesday, but this is what I found..........
M939 Military 5-ton Truck Oil Hose Assembly 12277179 NOS 72 inch
NSN 4720-01-115-2274
part target just lists that assembly but you need a pitcher I guess
There is...
I did read someplace that the dual master cylinder rebuild would normally just need replacements of the o-rings. rustystud and/or many others may chime in here if that is true.
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