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Probably less than half as effective. Just like loosing the 2:1 halves the thrust provided by the tires for a given amount of torque applied, it reduces braking thrust Also. As noted lowering the RPM also makes it less effective, so you must up RPM and ratio to regain some of that...

I could see flung oil inside the bell-housing weeping thru the joint between engine and bell-housing and bell-housing and transmission, but I don’t see it being flung beyond that as the bell-housing is not under pressure. After it weeps, its down or wherever it is blown by the wind tunnel up...

Or it just has some crap in it allowing tire air to leak past...

Cat specced a pair of group 31 batteries for the equipment that uses these engines. Thats about 100AH of battery and is usually paired with a 50-75A@24v alt. There are literally millions of vehicles motoring down the highway with a similar configuration… A 75A@24(~28v) alt Is good for...

Ok, I was getting confused with all the thread drift:) wanted to confirm I was sending you the right starter circuit info. It is a bit different for the A1R…

And that was on an A0/3116 right?

Ok, so what problem are you still having and on what truck are you having it?

The problem is, you don’t really have a 100A alternator. It is more like a 60/40A alternator. The inlet air heater is automatically controlled by the ECU,

Ok, thats not too bad, 160-170AH maybe in a series parallel config. Thats way easier on the alt than jthe original 240AH bank… But they will still pull a bit of current when they are thirsty, 50A maybe…

Orange lights indicate low voltage, the heater and batts were probably overloading it. What are you running for batts?

The alternator doesn't come online until after you get 15PSI of oil pressure(idiot light goes out), which it most likely does after you are done cranking. this is the same circuit that disables the start circuit to keep you from engaging the starter/cranking a running engine it was probably...

Well there are I believe 12v and 24v versions of these starters, the solenoid might not have been the 24v version… Jumping across the large terminals of the aux start relay on the drivers frame should bypass everything above. If that didn't crank, and you still see 24v on the starter + and -...

Hadnt helped anyone with this issue either. Hope it works

No that sounds about right. Should be just a loud honkish whoosh. The more you push on that relief, the higher the pressure in the manifold should be, which would lessen/slow the dump whoosh because the pressure would be closer to the tire pressure... as the dump port closes, it can make some...

Which is probably why folks are opting to weld them in place:)

well you could unscrew the pressure sensor, connect a low pressure gauge and manually run a deflate with jumpers and see what pressure the relief holds the system at like I do on my manual system to monitor tire pressure…

Mine runs about 7PSI when deflating. 5.5 seems a bit low and closing in on the point where the wheel valves close… If you held a little pressure on that relief with your fingertip, you should see an increase in that deflate pressure…

Thats why it is probably easier to test pressure at the oil sample valve. It has a small AN/JIC fitting, but you could just slip a hose over it and clamp it in place with a hose clamp to get a pressure sample… it is also far easier to access than the oil pressure sensor… with no/low oil...

Your problem could also be as simple as a loose fitting or pinhole in the return line that is keeping you from pulling a vacuum and delivering air to the hand pump reservoir instead of fluid… This design always struck me as mickey mouse. They really should have just run the return line thru the...

I am not sure of the specifics of overhauling that hand pump. when you lift the cab, you send more fluid to the base end of the cylinder per inch of travel than is returned from the rod end because of the amount of fluid the rod displaces. the hand pump being sealed should go into a vacuum and...