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Another great place is www.Discounthydraulichose.com You go on their web site, design your hoses using the lists of hose and fittings ( they stock every fitting imaginable ) , submit the order and 3 days later they are on you door step. I use them all the time for equipment hydraulic hoses made...

Looks like at a min. you will need to find a new (or used) stator. Post up some pics once apart and we can get a better idea.

Sounds like your 802 is pretty normal, they vibrate like a S.O.B due to the in-line piston design. The horse stall mats Zed254 linked to are great, I suggest them to everyone who buys a machine from me and plans to put it on a slab.

If its not stuck down tight, remove or secure the little half ring on top of the Control panel cover as well. Sometimes the exhaust flaps are very noisy too, especially if you have an 802 and a bunged up mounting bracket for your flap. If your machine happens to be trailer mounted.... get out...

So you have 110V into the breaker, but were you able to test the output side of the breaker to confirm that power stops at the breaker and not further down the trail?

Hi Crusty, Don't buy the flywheel on ebay, I have one I can sell you cheaper. I'll reply to your PM with info on the IP parts as well.

Teltech is correct, read the data sheet. If you use the DP- 401 activator there is an induction period that must be adhered to. If you use the quicker -402 activator there is no induction time. Think i will check to see what's left on ebay. Only thing to keep in mind is that epoxy will become...

If you look at the thin black ring around the outer delivery valve housing, that is the SR8515 delivery valve spacer. It's smaller in real life than it appears in the parts diagram. You should try to save it because I don't have one and it's $25 plus shipping for a new one. I sent you a PM...

I use Rapco as well and have no complaints other than that the gloss is a bit too high for a truely correct restoration project, however the matt finish is much easier to clean than a real FLAT finish. With that said, in addition to the Rustoleum Camo Ultra flat, I have found that their High...

If you want to flatten out the Rapco paint you can go to your local autobody supply shop and get some universal flattening agent. They should sell it by the Qt. for about $35 and a qt is plenty for a gallon. Dupont makes a very good one, but most any brand should have it, like AwlGrip G3013...

I do mostly high end automotive restoration work, but I have also painted everything from excavators to military equipment and everything in between. My current personal preferance is a 2 part epoxy primer. It will adhere very well to everything including bare steel with no adverse reactions to...

Also, in addition to moving in and out, was your plunger rotating?? If not, that's a clear sign of a broken $12 plunger guide which is pretty much the equivalent of a shear pin. If that's the case, you are in for a complete tear down and rebuild, which is actually pretty easy. Most of these...

Post up some pictures of what happened, I may be able to get you the parts you need. I recently ended up with 3 damaged PSU pumps that I had to replace with Ambac M-50's. Most of the components are identical except for the plunger and drive gear due to the lack of a plunger guide in the PSU...

Don't worry about the injectors yet, a bad injector won't really hurt anything. The injection pump is the most important thing to verify the plunger both moves in and out and it rotates. IF you happen to have the rare American Bosch PSU pump rather than the Ambac M50, damaging the plunger...

Unfortunately you have to tear down the entire generator to get in there. It's not the greatest of designs. You are usually better off just removing the radiator support and pulling the motor/gen out as a unit then tear the generator head apart to get to those bolts.

It's a pretty straight forward swap, but you will need to cut the fuse holder wires and either resolder or butt connectors. The wires from the stator and DC regulator go onto a terminal block, take note of their locations which are also noted in the TM. Also, disconnect your batteries first or...

Back up to your 5V on the glow plug issue, that's a classic sign of the braided ground strap on the right side engine mount ( near batteries) being rotted away. Sounds like you already know it's an engine ground issue but wanted to confirm for you. First time I had that issue it drove me nuts...

You might be able to find a used one, which is very simple to swap out, but no one makes a new replacement. You really can't bypass it without making other electrical modifications to compensate for it because you need to hold S1 after the unit starts for several reasons. With that switch...

Looking good! Remember, don't run it too long with the covers off or you will overheat it. I'd say go ahead and clean out the fuel tank yourself, it's a very simple process that many people have well documented here already. The old air cooled's are great, they can sit a LONG time with little...

Figures... I had an 802 base and an 002 base and just scrapped both of them a few weeks ago and barely got anything for them! Scrapped a total of 1300 lbs. of heavy aluminum and barely got $140 :-(