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I'd suggest giving it another good flush job with either automotive radiator flush or some muriatic acid added to the water. Get it hot ( with no thermostat installed ) , let it run for a while then flush it with water again. Refill it with 60/40 and most importantly, install a new 180*...

Glad to hear it's running good now. I doubt the old fuel canister gaskets were the issue ( you mentioned fuel filter but I assume you changed both filters again? ) because a leak there or at the copper washers on the retainer bolts would result in fuel leaking out, not air getting sucked in...

A good machine shop can sleeve just about anything, it will probably come down to a matter of price. If you can locate either a good short block or at least a good block it will probably be cheaper, but fixing yours is not out of the question, just need to consult a local machine shop.

Guys, The absolute best product is Caswel Plating's 2 part epoxy tank sealer. It's available on ebay. I have posted several other times here as to how to use it. It's a bit pricey but it works. You clean the tank, mix the epoxy, dump it in and just keep tipping the tank around until the epoxy...

Sounds to me like you may have gotten air into your fuel system when you did the filters. Try running the fuel pumps for a good 10 minutes or more with the machine off. Open the fuel tank and verify that you can hear fuel trickling into the tank while the pumps are running. Also, did you loosen...

As a side note I suppose I should mention that I sold out of the Champion ones I had mentioned above. I still have the original Onan glow plug kits, but they are much more expensive than the deal OldPhart has found. I'm tempted to buy more of the Champion's myself!

You can rig up the exhaust however you want, but my feeling is always to put the flex joint as close to the motor as possible, thereby minimizing the amount of "rigid" weight you add onto the original mufflers and manifold. The one thing you do not want to do is add pipe, mufflers or anything...

I needed like 5 of them about a year ago.... 5 out of 7 machines I bought in 1 lot were missing them. luckily I stumbled across a good deal on ebay for something that looked close, but I didn't have the PN. Think it was 10 pcs. for under $20, so I bought them and was thrilled that they happened...

Now... how do we get this info stuck into the Spare parts thread?? Might as well try to keep it all in one place.

I think what Guy means is that a fast running pump can indicate no fuel upstream of the pump, so a clogged filter would not be the cause. It would be something before the pump, if the pump was clicking abnormally fast. How much fuel was left in the tank? Was it anywhere close to empty (...

I'd agree. In theory there should be no reason it wouldn't work as long as the load is ok for the 802. You can easily try it using a dummy load, if you are worried about it not working right.

Have you been running under a load, or just running with no load? I have one that was doing something similar and the adjustment of the linkage on the speed controller was out of whack. It would randomly chug black smoke and then be fine other times. Running under a load and seeing if the speed...

If you can get the ammeter going, or use a clamp on multi meter, that would help figure this out. The wiring is pretty simple on the ammeter. 1 wire goes to the AM/VM switch and the other wire goes to one of the small screws on the CT which is under the top cover, to the right of the AC select...

I'm just shooting from the hip here, but one thing I'd suspect is a possible bad or stuck magnetic contactor inside the parallelling box. Honestly, the gen's themselves use very similar contactors and they sometimes get stuck and a good way to fix it ( believe it or not ) is to just whack it...

On a side note, your machine is probably the "Best" looking water logged machine I've seen. Looks like it probably didn't sit very long with all that water in it. I've had several that probably sat for years! My cylinder bore were pitted severely, pistons were frozen etc. Yours looks like very...

Your oil pressure is fine. MANY of them run at about 25 psi. once they are hot. I think the oil pressure shut off is set at about 18 psi. So 25 when hot and under load is considered pretty normal.

With the side cover off you will have good access to see if there's any junks in the bottom of the block, but stick your fingers up in the area around the fuel rack and the lifters and make sure there aren't any chunks sitting up on the ledge. Poke around on the internet looking for new metering...

Some other things to look for are the Quad fuse mod. , does the owner know how to operate it correctly ( if he starts it up and lets it idle run away! ) If he load tests it and touches the throttle to keep the engine up to speed... Run away! As LITD said, look for leaks especially at the fuel...

Are you planning to buy from a retail / private owner or are you planning to buy at auction? They list will vary depending on where you plan to buy and if you can see it run or not.

If you look behind the fault indicator panel, the original diagnostic plug and cap should still be back there zip tied into a bubble wrap bag. Remove the other junk as the guys indicated above and screw the original plug and cap back into place.