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P32pac, so that I understand correctly are you saying you can move the throttle through the full range of motion on the lever where the cable attaches and the engine speed does not change at all? If so it sounds like you have a problem inside the governor assembly. You also said it smokes a...

You guys got Trains, Trucks, Tanks etc... WHERE did I go wrong! So Jealous... :drool:

Nice, looks great. Do you pull it out with a pallet jack when time to use or test??

No need to pull the cover to adjust droop. Check the TM and find the droop adjustment procedure. There is a hex key pipe plug in the timing cover right near the throttle linkage. Remove that plug and there is a hex key screw that you access through the hole. The TM tells you what size hex keys...

If I recall correctly there are wiring schematics for both style switches in the TM. I know I've seen them before, but luckily haven't needed them. FYI, stuck switches are very common on the 002 and 003. Usually loosening the rods that retain the switch into a single unit and spraying some...

I've been using the 383 green PN 34094 from Rapco Parts. Nothing will match perfect if the set is faded, but you can get a spray can and spray some into the cap to use for brush touch-up or use the spray can to "Dust" it in and blend it a little. Another quick note: if the set is faded, go over...

Try taking a look at the wiring schematic and the part in question. I'm not that familiar with the 804 but most other sets have identifiers that help you determine what things are. See if it's got a K* label near it. Sounds like either you starter or glow plug relay.... if a yanmar turbo even...

Yes! it seems like most of the decent ones have almost dried up and the current auctions are mainly either beat down high hour units or neglected machines with parts missing, bad motors etc. HOWEVER.... people are still paying more than ever for some of these crappy looking units! All I can do...

Hey Kurt, I know you said you had fuel pressure but which pump do you have? I'm wondering if you have a fuel pump about to fail. I've seen once or twice where the pump would sound fine, but wasn't pumping fuel intermittently. I changed out the pump and problem went away. Maybe you could rig up a...

To charge a 24V system you need about 27-28V ( typically you need 13.6V per battery ) so I think you are in the ballpark. The only issue could be the speed of the fluctuation. Your alternator output could be swinging drastically rapidly ( often exaggerated when hot ) yet a digital volt meter...

Welcome.... You are dead on, Guyfang's persistent direction to read the TM as well as searching and reading the previous posts will pretty much solve any issues without fail. While we all enjoy helping members solve their problems, I think too often people don't bother to do any research first...

Normally the throttle lever should return all the way until it hits the stop screw. If the screw has never been fiddled with you might see red marking paint and possibly locking wire on them. The actual stopping of the motor is done by the IP's. So, a stop screw that is out of adjustment or an...

Do you have the hold down clamps on the pumps and just not locked down tight? If the clamps are not on at all, or they are too loose the pin and lever of the IP will hit the underside of the block ( above the rack ) and bind it up. If one cylinder is on the "Pump" lobe of the cam this condition...

Take a peek under the cover and let us know what is missing or broken. I probably have all the pieces of the S7 assembly, just let me know what else you are missing besides the broken spring tab in your picture and I'll take a look in my parts stash.

I believe he said the emergency stop switch was working, however.... Did you check the DC circuit breaker?? It's inside the control cubicle, to the left of the AC select switch mounted to a bracket, it's right above the alternator charging fuse. See it has popped out.

That's a very good price for a real Cummins kit. The knock-off kits actually came down to $66 now!

Hello ECS, FYI, that's the metering pump you took apart, not an injector. I don't think there are any o-rings in the metering pumps, but not 100% positive. There might be an exploded view in the TM. Take a look at the spring down the bottom, make sure it isn't stuck in the compressed position...

Got it, thanks LITD. Yes, Jamawieb I can do them, however I don't have any more needle / nozzle or gasket kits. I can adjust them and clean the ones that are salvagable, but sometimes it's better to replace the nozzle and pintle if they are really bad. Shoot me a PM and we can talk more.

I believe everything also comes in the complete gasket kits available for like $80 on ebay if you search by engine. Also, The preformed gaskets on the tube are just o-rings.

If you decide to rebuild, carefully inspect everything remotely close to that bore, look up and check the bottom of the lifter / metering pump "ledge" to make sure it didn't get whacked by the bust rod. I've only seen 2 motors with broken rods and both had block damage in this area.