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Gotta love those 2 stroke detroits. My college diesel shop uses them as the first engine all the students tear apart and rebuild, they have engines 50+ years old that still run like a top.

Thanks for the update, sometimes it's the simple issues that get overlooked. While you are at it, if you want heat, make sure the fresh air inlet in the passenger foot well is closed down so you're recirculating more warm air, rather than always sucking in cold air. That is, if you want to...

1) when an emergency happens, you only have the skills and equipment you start with. Very steep learning curve, and modern society is way too pampered to survive without reverting to pure savagery. 2) yes, please get the proper switch, linemen have literally been killed by homeowners doing...

Not all of this will apply to your situation, but make sure you read through this thread for things to look for while doing an initial inspection of the truck https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/leo-fd-hmmwv-check-list-part-numbers.90657/

The warning in the book you posted doesn't apply to the heater operated from the driver's seat. Most likely for either the ambulance or a comms shelter.

Sounds like fan is doing it's job properly, and that the temp gauge is close enough. A lot of these units have issues with the coolant system being gunked up from who knows what happening to them, everything from muddy water being poured in, to incompatible coolants causing chemical reactions...

the "jumping feeling" is most likely the tire being out of round. Sometimes my truck feels really bad at it if the front tires are at the same spots on rotation, the rest of the time it's more of a side to side thing as the flat spots hit the ground at different times. None of the local tire...

Yeah, neither am I. I can see a risk of the bluetooth one getting stolen if someone knows what they are looking at, but it really isn't much more than a decent controller installed inside the cab. It's probably the route I will go when I finally get around to a hitch on mine.

If you don't want to do any wiring in the HMMWV, there are several brake controllers that mount to the trailer instead of the truck. The first one plugs in between the 7 pin outlet and the trailer harness and uses bluetooth, the second one hardwires to your trailer and uses a FOB to adjust it...

laws here for towing a trailer without brakes are under 3000 lbs, or 40% the tow vehicle's weight, whichever is lower. I think that might be a national code, not just local, but haven't checked to be certain. I tow a 2000 lb trailer with my VW sportwagen, I installed trailer brakes first thing...

So the math you posted adds up, it should be in the 24-27 amp range for current. Just remember that when the genset is turned to 3 phase it has a max rated load of 16.6 amps, not the 26 that it's rated for at 240V single phase. That means the generator is NOT sized large enough according to...

Got everything back installed how it's supposed to be. So in the course of several hours, I did the following. Dumped in 10 gallons of fuel, tank reads at 1/4. Tried to start, no go. Bled the system at the filter, then at the injectors. Fired for a few seconds, then died. Checked fuel...

It takes something like 16k BTU of energy to make 1KW of power (at least for natural gas and propane generators). The main reason why fuel use increases with size is the amount of fuel burned just to keep the heavy mass of the engine crank, pistons, flywheel, generator rotor, and...

not quite the same trailer as I have, but mine is 10' from the front of the ECU to the back of the trailer. Were it me I would take a bunch of wood blocks. Have the front trailer sitting level on the deck, tongue as far forward as possible, a pile of wood blocks between the DRASH trailer...

inside the tank was surprisingly clean. bought a 5/16 stainless nut, bolt, and washers, used JB Weld PlasticWeld epoxy to seal it up. Even if it doesn't bond to the tank it (and it probably won't) should still make a decent mechanical seal that is diesel resistant. It's at the top of the...

That would be my guess, unless something else went wrong as well.

Throwing solar/battery/inverter into the mix changes things a little. With the U.S. residential standard being 120/240V, most of the off grid inverter systems are 120/240v. There ARE 3 phase units available, but they are less common. This means it will be higher priced, and if anything...

unplug the wires to the key switch, if you still get big sparks at the battery, it's the starter solenoid, otherwise it's the key switch.

the LEDs will work fine for signals, but if your trailer has a battery system in it that is supposed to charge off the vehicle then you'll need to do more than just the bulbs to make it all work properly.

the XM381 adapter is the best deal I've seen for one, and I haven't heard anything bad about them either. I'll be getting one once I finally get a 2" receiver