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an M1101 from 2010 just went for $1800 with bows and tarp at auction local to me, so I'd expect it to hit the civilian market here at around $3k. It looks like it is complete with the landing legs and everything looks functional.

I've been told that as well, but somehow my M1123 made it through with just that slight snag. The big thing I think is that it came from the Marines and not the Army/DLA so it never had the "off road use only" stamp on the SF-97. I know the DMV put out a guidance letter early this year...

...where everything seems to go just right. So today was a pretty good day. Backstory: I bought a truck at the start of April, picked it up at the end of May. M1123 with a serial number from 2000. Then waited 2 months, SF-97 never came. Auction listing said "Sells with clean SF-97" and...

old style slave cable before adopting the Nato standardized one. They make adapters to go from it to the Nato one and back.

yup. the rims are the limit for you. 12 bolt and 24 bolt evenly spaced rims are 50psi, the 24 bolt rims where they are paired bolts are 65psi, mainly for heavy armored trucks. Just avoid any 8 bolt rims as they're lower pressure.

I think it's just that water has a higher level of heat transfer than the ethylene glycol does. I'm not going to claim it's better to use higher water content, just that the heat transfer properties are better. That's why we won't run straight ethylene glycol in engines. But just because...

While it may work to run a tire without the bead lock on one of these, the sealing surfaces are different angles/design than your standard tire without a bead lock system, so most of us recommend at least doing the PVC insert if you're going away from the run flat. If you are going to be buying...

I hate doing the poking around trying to find the bad connection when working on customer units, because most of the time I never find anything I can point at and say "this is the problem, and now the problem is fixed, so it won't happen again" It usually ends up "I tried finding what was wrong...

Glad to hear it worked out for you.

and yeah, just the necessities being a well pump and fridge/lights shouldn't be an issue. I do my house with an MEP-802A, so just under twice the output that you've got, and in all reality I could get by with a lot less if I planned to never use the hot water heater, oven, or dryer. Lights, a...

Yes, when you add the jumper then L0 becomes your neutral, and would have to be connected to the house neutral in order to do 120V loads. Once you add the jumper just make sure you don't turn the selector knob to any other voltages as you could fry the generator by doing so. If it's possible...

I changed my post to different information as what I found out completely changed everything that's needed to be known. Looks like you responded before I fixed it.. It also explains why your well pump being 240V is the only thing working right.

It took me a little while to find, but near the very end of TM 5-6115-271-14 it shows switch position "C" which is the 240V 1 phase uses L1 and L2 to give 240V. To have it as 120/240 would require a third terminal being used, so this is a 240V ONLY in this position, not 120/240...

https://www.wincogen.com/wp-content/uploads/PD/Engines/ISUZU-4LE1-OPM.pdf https://www.wincogen.com/wp-content/uploads/PD/Engines/Isuzu-4LE1T_SHOP-MANUAL.pdf It depends on the specs of the engine, some had smaller oil pan capacities depending on application, as that's a standard Isuzu...

sounds like either the starter solenoid is stuck or somewhere a wire is giving it the start signal. The starter itself is probably fine, would need a new solenoid if that's the issue.

while the cost might be a little upsetting, I doubt you'll find any reason to be unhappy with the batteries themselves.

definite pattern scheme https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=225282

https://www.marcorsyscom.marines.mil/Portals/105/pdmeps/docs/MEP/B0930.pdf 20kw rated unit. Shouldn't have anything to do with year of build or rebuild or any of that stuff. These were an "emergency acquisition" to the military, bought outside the normal set of rules, and the impression I'm...

definitely go through the 100 hour break in. Even if the gauge is wrong, you won't be hurting anything by doing it.

yes, RPMs set frequency. Most U.S. appliances will have no issues with voltage between 110-120 and 220-240VAC, so topping out at 245 shouldn't be an issue unless you're trying to do something weird with 277VAC or something.