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With all 7 WS-hinge screws removed, (normally) that inner plate would still stay in place, via two rivets. (hinge comes notched for that reason).
Sounds like those two rivets were missing, or sheared off, too...?
In order to keep the original pattern for the WS hinge screws I would try this...
Not so quick....
1) Most military tires today are radials.
2) The bead seat/ bead flange height and other specs of a wheel has nothing to do with the tire being radial or bias ply; military or not.
Regarding different wheel types and their specs I suggest a bit of reading in the Continental...
(Many years ago) I have studied/ measured M35 vs. M34 wheels in every possible way... (see some drawings, here). We also learned that the M211 and M35 share the same wheel specs; as well as M135- and M34-wheels being identical. Regarding basic dimensions I have never encountered any others...
You say synchros look good... guess you mean they work/ feel good?
Or have you had the top cover off, already and looked inside? And.... not turned 5th gears to check if all teeth are still there?
Or at least pull the drain plug and see what comes out...?
G.
Many ways to skin a cat.... and some (like the OP's) obviously are less expensive.
That drawing is only to give an idea of what can be done, for a cheaper alternative- and to explain the why and how of that "lip"....
I'm not saying the OP's wheels were done that way, though.
What you did is...
LOL... no, I know he means what looks like a "lip" around the custom center plate, after cutting off the ring, containing the original 10 bolt holes.
Nothing to collect much anything, there.... if it was done similar to the drawing below....
G.
Yes, you can flip that part around, no problem.
Actually I wanted to see the other side's dogs, too. But if you say those look new, than its OK. Just install that side facing to the rear, to engage the large gear (= high range).
Very curious to know what happened with the synchro from that...
I'm with Gimpyrobb: that part looks to be re-usable, even if the front tips/ edges of the dogs are a bit rounded, already. Kind of hard to make a final judgement, based on those two photos only.
Wait until you have the other one out, and compare both. If still in doubt shoot some more close-ups...
Tools? Depends; to remove/ install a T-case: a strong 4"x4", 4' long; a chain hoist; to open the cases: common wrenches; maybe a 1/2" impact with 5/8" socket; to disassemble the input shaft assembly: hammer & wood block, or better a bearing puller, or even better a small arbor press; plus a good...
I think you meant to say more than ...?
(From the pic I can tell you got 10-1/2" to 10-3/4", there.)
Typically, when using 1/2" center plates mounted inside, the backspace for a recentered HEMTT wheel is 8-1/2"; and for a FMTV wheel = 8-7/8".
Ideally we need little over 8-5/8" BSp for any of...
Question for all you M37-W/winch-guru's, about that flat iron, spreader-bar, or crossmember, or whatever it's called - circled red in the picture below (sorry, couldn't find it in the TM's .... at least not in the -212-20)......
..... I can see where it mounts and can well imagine what it...
Pics? I don't need pics.........:smile:
I like your "low-budget" approach and wouldn't say its unsafe to build a wheel like this (if weldings are OK).
Remember: "off-road- (or paper-weight-) use only...!:wink:
You probably know that there are wheels out there which have a thicker center...
This sure is getting interesting - a good learning experience, at least! ... and probably having many of us scratch our bald spots at this point, too...!
Swapping HH's may solve your problem, but then we will never know what exactly caused that intermittent failure...:smile:
100%, its NOT the...
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