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Steve,:funny: A sailor - need gun... ehh, I mean needle gun!:-) And YES, I agree with the OP: a needle scaler is THE TOOL to remove those several layers of thick, old CARC paint; where sandblasting would take forever. After countless work-hours the needles on mine are already worn down to...

TM only says 7 psi (min) at 150 rpm... Even if not - as long as there is positive pressure at the HH inlet port it should be able to inject enough for the engine to start. What if you pulled one or two injectors, hooked them up OUTSIDE and watch it work while cranking...? You should see...

Phil, yes, could be the plunger sticking, but if it moves up-down 5.5mm, consistently, while turning engine over, that could be excluded IMHO. From the description it also sounds like timing was way off but.... if nothing was disassembled it only could occur (to some degrees, retarded) if...

Build yourself a "balancing hub" like this one here...: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74670-Balancing-Tires&p=1263962&viewfull=1#post1263962 G.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?46732-5-ton-winch-on-a-deuce&p=1027658&viewfull=1#post1027658 G.

No problem; all engines have them and all model LDT's, + LD, + LDS-465-1 and 1A engines (codes B,C,D,E and F) share the same oil sprayer tubes. The LDS-465-2 and the LDS-427-2 have different ones. G.

YES, for what you have in mind. See the TD in the attached picture... G.

Certainly NOT here in the 5ton Forum ...or anywhere in the open Forums! Start here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?81119-The-shooting-range-info-and-rules G.

Oh really.....?:confused: G.

Methanol and WMO won't mix easily.... (unless it was full synth. motor oil). G.

Good reminder-thread, Ron! (since most of us don't inspect them regularly - if ever......) Now, that wasn't on the RH front axle hub of the "Flying Wrecker"....?:-P On a serious note, especially for the front wheels: besides hitting a curb or large obstacle; even minor front axle...

There is a reason they all are stamped MAX.TIRE 12.00...... G.

Even with all components mounted in place, the inner brake shoe(lining) could still be dragging at its upper OR lower end; instead of maintaining an even gap to the drum, when the lever is fully released. That can be corrected /adjusted by slightly bending this spring (red circle)... Actually...

To evenly press it back to original shape I use exact fitting bearing cups, eventually turned/chamfered accordingly. Will try to find what size/ part# it was for the speedo.... Sometimes YES, see above...:smile: G.

:ditto: ...for everything cattlerepairman said, except maybe the hex socket......:smile: Spindle nuts are 3"-octogonal. (= 8 flats - not six; for the common user...) I'm sure that was a typo. G.

That's why I said in that other thread that you have to drop the pan to get access to the lower 5 bolts, from a total of 9 holding the seal retainer in place. G.

Only two weeks ago..... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101057-REO-331-gasser-rear-main-seal-Trick-for-replacing-it G.

yes, to sell stuff....! G. See this link: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77750-Premium-Membership-Explained

Issues...? NO! :-) G.

Std. ones all are 60" above bed floor. You did notice this thread was about WS-frame seals.......? G.