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I think his intuition (OCD) is on the right track. Doing a little searching I would tentatively say you have a (much more common) Bendix AD-9 Dryer or a knock off of same (it appears to be a popular design that is copied): https://www.google.com/search?q=bendix+ad-9+air+dryer If that's the...

Ok that does NOT use the cartridge I linked to previously. The one Iinked is for the Haldex unit on my A1R: I would say - based on the lack of matching sand-colored paint that it's been upgraded.

I checked the heater end of the wiring - it's just a single terminal from the solenoid into the heater. And it looks untouched and stock. You are correct - TL508 is the solenoid side of the wire after the fusible link. TL507 connects to the LBCD. I swapped it back and fired it up. No more...

Well - I did confirm that the heater is currently hooked to the wrong terminal. It's on the 12v load terminal, and should be connected to the 24v batt terminal. On my truck and in my schematic it is TL508. I'm going to move it today. Wiring looks all original CAT and the solenoid is labeled...

Ya know I wondered about why it wasn't a 24v heater. :unsure: I have been doing searches on the C7 heater trying to find specs like amperage draw, etc..... Well I know for a fact that I didn't swap them but someone had been in there for sure at some point because I clearly remember at least one...

My mistake they are $165 from NAPA. About the best price I can find is on eBay at the moment: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1929660435 Make sure yours looks like this one. The plastic cartridge that is under the big aluminum dome on the top. Rick

Video of the 14v gauge on cold start with the intake heater running. If you set the high idle it draws more power as more air is pulled across the heating element. Voltage goes back to 14v when the grid heater turns off. Having no frame of reference for normality I figured I would get opinions...

There are several different drier designs depending on A0 vs. A1 trucks. It is generally recommended to replace the entire drier with a newer design on the A0 trucks as much better is available now. On my A1R truck I was able to order the drier cartridge from NAPA for like $65 or so. The air...

This is a 1079 A1R truck that came with the 260a stock. The LBCD is rated at 200a on it's data plate so I would assume it disconnects around/above 200a.... But there's nothing that says if that's the 14v or 28v or combined rating. And the LBCD relies on the VR to send it the load signal which I...

So the question is - did these guys leak or did they blow up? Given I have the 260a alternator.... The truck did already have a newer voltage regulator when I got it. Given the state of the connections though I'm not that surprised.

Yeah you can't see them because they are set in the epoxy - but I can test between the batt and load terminals and they are definitely present. There's about a 0.4v drop in forward bias so I'm guessing a Schottky Diode is being used. I don't know the size of them but I would assume they are...

Battery disconnect is the pair in the box on the back of the battery tray that has the manual disconnect on the underside.

There are big honkin diodes set into the epoxy with the main studs such that it protects against reverse polarity. There is big caps to suck up any massive voltage spikes such as when the LBCD trips the battery disconnect. And there is rudimentary circuitry to monitor how much load the...

Got it torn down. Took an epic amount of digging out the silicone impregnated sand..... Will generate a rough schematic based on the circuit. Looks pretty straightforward as far as what this thing does: Haven't decided if these leaked or got blown up. Rick

STOP and change/service the air drier. 1000 miles is easily enough to WRECK the compressor with back pressure. If you have moisture in the air system then the drier is not doing it's job. In wet climates they should be serviced every 6 months..... I made the mistake of driving 2700 miles with...

That's all of 30 seconds of cranking. Reminds me of the 800 and 900 series trucks and the HMMWV's....... My C7 at similar temp is about 5-10 seconds of cranking at most. That's without Ether. I will take a video when the temp drops back down. I have some interesting footage I'm going to post on...

The "intake heater" lamp only comes on after it's started. So...... I don't *think* it's operating unless you are cranking or the engine is running. It takes a little more cranking to get fired up at the 26 degrees we had last week - maybe 5 seconds of cranking compared to 2 seconds at normal...

That is my understanding. There's no way to manually trigger the ether. The intake heater has a corresponding dash indicator lamp. I installed an ether bottle because the black plastic cap wasn't keeping out water from the fitting anyway as there was no gasket. I ended up using a silicone garden...

My C7 has both a grid heater, and the military installed ether system.

These are BIG caps. Near as I can tell they have two 120,000 μF @ 16v caps on the 12v side..... I haven't dug far enough into it to see the rating on the top two and I'm just guessing they might be different because up there is the 28v side. Purely a guess though. And yes - I'm guessing to cut...