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If you have fuel coming out of the return fitting you have enough fuel pressure to run, the IP actually does not need any pressure in the gov. body to run it just needs to be full. the IP actually has a charge pump, they have been known to run with a bad lift pump but not well. As Camo said...

Curious do you have a replacement fender?

Can someone snap a picture of what the insulation looks like behind the evap on say a M1151/52, M1165 This basic insulation is not going to work.

I know this is sacrilege but I sometimes use a wood chisel, having a handle sometimes comes in handy.

AWESOME!!!

I removed the old radio shelf brackets and installed the 5 nutserts and the adapter bracket, now to let my back recover from all that odd posture. Sorry for the blurry pics, seems the darker it is the harder it becomes to get clear pictures.

Welcome to the SS forum!!

The factory radio tray bracket came in today from 86humv THANKS!! So I decided to start on the front evap install, I pulled the old heater ass. and the cover that goes across the dash, that huge Fleece turbocharger did not make it easy but we got it done. So far it seems pretty straight...

This thread was started about a BASIC truck which has rigid lines, YOUR truck is an A2 which already has flexible lines, as pointed out before all you need to do is order the few parts that are missing, no need to reinvent your brake system, the reference picture and parts list has already been...

Unless it was a new belt I would just cut the belt and replace the tensioner as I would be replacing the belt anyway.

When you get the alt off post a clear picture of the back of the alt. This will allow us to see what reg you need. If it has pin connectors instead of spade terminals on the reg then you would need part # AMA1004S this is the early style alt.

It looks like someone may have painted over the nomenclature on your alt, I believe the reg you are looking for is a AMA2004AS. On some alternators it is reported that the outside circumference must be filed down a little bit so the regulator will slip into the back of the alternator. Also your...

You should buy and install the correct parts, your life may depend on it.

It is or should be a 6.5L, AMG bought the rights to the 6.5L when GM quit producing them and made some significant improvements to the engine, they formed the General Engine Products company.

Yes that is a 60A, you also have a GEP engine that is very good!!

Nether is plug and play, with the 100A or 200A you will have to run a larger charge wire from the alt to the batteries, also both the 100 and 200A are dual voltage so you would want to run a second charge wire that keeps the batteries balanced and would allow to draw 12V from the center battery...

Pictures..

If your radio is reporting high voltage then you should fix it before using it any more, the afterglow causes the voltage to drop at idle below normal but there should be no reason for it to go above normal, the longer you wait the more possible damage can be done, besides the fact it will...

Bouncing between green and yellow is normal, pegging the needle to the right is not. it might get into the red as the needle over swings but again not pegged to the right. This is why he needs to put a meter on the batteries or the output terminal of the alternator to see what is actually...

Yes the first sentence in his post is normal this is called afterglow, but not the pegging of the gauge in the red. Regulator failure is EXTREMELY common with the 60A alternator, this is one reason many convert to 100/200A alternators.