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You should get a solid transmission light when the run switch is in the run position but not running, if not most likely the TCM has no power.

Sounds good, do not forget to get the IP rebuilt it is one of the most likely failure points in the injection system, much more so than the injectors themselves

I'm not sure a little "fuel smoke on acceleration" is a good reason to replace the injectors, this is not a ECM controlled engine and a little smoke on acceleration should be expected. Why tempt the fates? or Why open Pandora's box or If it ain't broke don't mess with it....

There is no logical reason to twist the Duramax at 2700RPM+ at normal highway speeds, even without the T/C failure issue. BTW when it does fail it takes out the engine (usually rips the pan off) and transmission, just rips the side out. There seems to not be an issue with the 2.73 gears...

How about a set of V belts?

BTW you need to ditch those 3.07 gears, seems the T/C front output shaft does not like running with the engine turning 2700+ rpm at 75mph, (multiple failures) I am running the 2.56 gears and turning about 2150RPM at 75MPH which is about 100RPM or so higher than my 2008 GMC C3500HD LTZ with 3.73...

Putting dual alts on the LMM is easy, it already has the mounts or at least most of it

I put two alternators on it and ran dual voltage system, no the AC will not run on 12V, no problem with room for fan You will need to reduce the height unless you want to do a large lift, I did mine with 2" would recommend 3"

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/how-not-to-install-a-duramax-in-a-m998.199340/ I did a M998 but many of the issues will be the same, I was not able to fit the late style fuel tank in this conversion. I just turned 14K and had to "redo" very little. I am by NO means saying this was the...

That is a great write-up, the only thing I can think of to add is to take a small pry bar and after removing the last converter bolt to gently pry the converter towards the transmission to make sure it is released from the pilot in the crankshaft so the converter comes back with the...

Unless you have done the front diff centering mod and you want to carry spare half shafts you will need three of them, OR you can just take a hub end of a half shaft and shorter bolts for the inside flange and limp out in 2WD. Breaking a half shaft is rather rare, most failures are installation...

I have to double down on what @DREDnot said, it is bad to EVER run an engine without coolant, or P/S fluid if the belts are on the engine, the water pump can be damaged in a very short time as the coolant is the lubricant for the water pump seal, same goes for the P/S pump, very bad juju to run...

IMHO the best thing is to pick one and do a COMPLETE flush, then stick to that part number, if you mix IAT and OAT you can end up with a mixture more corrosive than straight water and it can turn into a brown sludge. The last IAT I purchased was in an auto parts store, never use an "all...

If you look at the left brake line you will see how the right side needs to be connected, according to the parts TM it takes a rubber and a steel line not just a steel line. I think DREDnot has a basic or A1 truck.

When you say "auxiliary" radiator, could you be talking about the engine oil and transmission cooler?

40 minutes of I can't believe it took THAT much labor to make a crystal.

All the information you need is posted, as I said there is no hardware but for bolts, nuts and washers except for the seal at the back of the top grill and all the part numbers are listed so you can search for them, I doubt anyone is selling the nuts, bolts and washers as a "kit" The bolt size...

I was looking at a hood today and there is nothing bolted to the holes you point out, the front and top grills are simply bolted in with bolts, washers and nuts, no "hardware" other than that but for the seal, numbers 16 and 17

This has been discussed quite a bit, general wisdom says use plain ol inorganic or IAT which is what we all used for decades now there is organic OAT and even hybrid HOAT The problem is it is evidently cheaper to produce OAT and even if you ask for good ol green you may get OAT just dyed green...

I'm not sure where all these junky trucks are coming from that they are selling in TX at this time, one I bought came as stated above, it was sold at a GP yard, they never did anything to it, no sign of any civilian mods, radios etc, obviously just sat probably for decades, there are quite a few...