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You do not need a code reader, the instructions are in the trouble shooting guide I posted above.

If you have not read the codes how is it you think you need a TISS or a relay???? One BIG mistake many folks make is just start willy nilly replacing parts, this can and OFTEN leads to multiple issues, troubleshoot the problem and fix it right. EDIT, there are at least two dozen different things...

As wheelspinner said, you likely fried the run relay in the PCB/EESS box. Also one should always replace the batteries in pairs with the same size battery and battery build date for best results.

There is a relay (contactor) in the EESS/PCB box that is likely bad, try tapping on it lightly with a hammer with the run switch on, sometimes that will get the relay to kick in,,if that is the problem the heater fan should also not be working as it is also powered by that relay. The relay is...

Welcome to the SS forum!!

I am starting down this road again, I have some 24 bolt (even) wheels and BFGs on the DuraVee, they did fine for about 10K then started to bounce, I have 13K on them now,,, so I took the worst one to the tire shop to see about getting it balanced, I am using dynamic balancers and did not get the...

Not long ago TWF had them for 135ea, I guess they did not sell well with W/S competing against them, they may go up now that W/S is at least temporarily out of the picture.

I sent him a message on his fleabay account (wigsplitter) and he said he was out and did not know when he was going to get more, trailworthy fab has some listed. Here is a link of a cut down runflat they sell, I guess that answers the question about what that other guy was selling, half of a 2...

I asked that seller about those, 3" obviously will not work alone as a beadlock, all I got back on 8-31 about a week after sending in the request was a form letter. "DISCLAIMER of WARRANTY and LIMITATION of LIABILITY:" I did not expect a straight answer from this guy but I was bored..

Remember to always disconnect the batteries when installing or removing the connectors on the PCB/EESS box. And as stated before if you bought an aftermarket switch that could also be your problem.

The regulator is the back aluminum portion of the alt, looks like this from the outside. There is usually no visible indication when it fries, since you stated it was overcharging at times it is likely is also toast but that is not what you are seeing right now, that is the terminals

Welcome to the SS forum!!

Welcome to the SS forum!!

There is also a lesson to be learned here, you should investigate any abnormalities in the electrical system before they turn into major damage.

That is not the regulator, that is the terminal cover, the terminals inside are burned up, this alt and wiring will need some major repair. I am not sure what is going on in front of the cover, looks like some arcing was going on outside the cover. Take the cover off and snap another picture...

When the hammer falls the vehicle is yours, I have had that conversation several times over the last 50 years or so.

It does not say aftermarket on the sale page but use their drop down tab for "products" then choose "aftermarket HMMWV parts" and there is your switch.

You still need to get the mater out and trace the issue rather than just swapping parts, you ether do or don't have 24V going in and out of the dimmer switch, if not look at the switch if you do look towards the lights. Again you need to do this with all the wires connected, use a probe with a...

Of course I had to go to the beach today, My first stop is the San Juan restaurant, I get there just as they open so I always get a good seat, an hour later and you are waiting for a table. They set this table up 4-5 times every morning to fill these little sauce containers for the to go...