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Also do you have a 100A or a 200A alternator? Ether way the N3135 will work, the N3119 is only for the 100A alt, the N3135 will work on ether the 100 or 200A

Have you checked to see if the alternator is getting 24V to the IGN. terminal?

I don't but it's just a personal decision, sometimes the washer expands and tries to push out from under the nut, I am still in shock at how good the shaft looks. How does the pulley fit without the key in it?? any slop?

That is called afterglow it should stop 2-3min after startup, you can generally see it on the volt meter, the needle will swing back and forth, that is a good thing, means your PCB is working. It would not be uncommon to see 230deg on a HMMWV the gauges are also not known for their accuracy...

Is the fan coming on? at speed you would know, they make allot of noise, to test you can unplug the TDM module and the fan will run all the time so you could test if that helps.

If it were me I would drop the pan with the intention of changing the fluid and filter, try not to disturb the sediment in the bottom of the pan so I could inspect it and I would pull the fill plug on the transfer case to see if it was over full if not done already, if it is over full it...

Also you did check the trans fluid level with it running and after cycling it through forward and reverse yes?

I think what the OP is saying is the transmission is slipping to the point it will only move the vehicle in low range because of the ratio it makes it easier to move the vehicle, does not sound good, what does the trans fluid look like bright shinny red? As others have said inspect all the half...

You can buy a reman TCM and you will need to get an EPROM as the PCS does not have one, Eastern Surplus has them pretty cheap

The issue as with many electronic boards is finding the documentation and then building a test jig to simulate every input and output to verify problems/operation, which would be the "correct" way to do it. The board is not potted so one can simply clean and look for burned and defective...

Well it sounds like you are getting ahead on this, the only shortcut you took was not explaining what you had done so far, helping each other is what the forums are all about. Since you have so many issues you may want to convert one of your posts to say (getting my M1097A2 up and running)...

You will find the information you need in the TMs. not on the WWW start with 9-2320-280-24P-1 figure 162 for the rear brake lines. The UOC (used on codes are on page 5 IIRC), every model HMMWV has its own UOC and that is how you get the correct parts.

Test the glow plugs before replacing them, troubleshoot then replace. the glow pugs are very easy to test, ether they show low ohms and are good or they show open and are bad. Buy all electrical parts from a reputable dealer, most if not all electrical parts on the popular auction sites are...

First if the fuel tank cap was missing the very first thing you should have done was pull the fuel tank plug and drain all the fuel out and put in fresh fuel after securing the parts and fixing the fuel tank fill issues. Remove the check valves in the fuel lines in front of the fuel tank...

"87cr250r is of course correct, oil samples should only be taken from engines in running condition and the oil type and miles is known, they are an invaluable tool but not called for in this case, I am sorry if it seemed I was endorsing taking an oil sample at this time.

There is no reason to use the earlier wheels unless you want do do a "correct" early restoration as the 12 bolt wheels with the alignment hole and even 24 bolt wheels are abundant and cheap.

Welcome to the SS forum

Rubbing the wires and mounting issues, if you have the resources you should replace the 400A with the 200A, if not make sure ALL the mounting bolts are tight and in good condition. The engine is mounted "crooked" in the engine bay so the alt not aligning with the body would be normal.

You are lucky you have a turbo engine, the water would have to fill the turbo to the point it passed through the crossover on the turbo outlet before you would be in real trouble, so you have to evaluate at what level the water was in when you found it compared to the level of the turbo outlet...

I think you have that backwards, according to HPG these are the rims the RED O ring fits.