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Fastbrass, to answer about the injectors, just remove the hold down clamp, remove the line and they pull straight out. of it's stuck a bit you can twist and pull on the flat area just below the fuel line. If they are frozen in tight ( not likely ) I have used a small slide hammer to pull them...

Yes, there is a gasket on the side cover. Many times you can reuse it if it doesn't get damaged or just replace it. You can get an entire LPW4 gasket kit on ebay for under $70 or you will probably pay 1/2 that for just the side gasket from Onan. Here is a new relief valve...

The relief valve is a 1" diameter tube about 6" long screwed into the back of the oil pump right next to the oil pump pickup tube. Its all the way to the left looking into the open engine side cover, points down on a 45 degree angle almost touching the bottom of the crankcase. Normally they can...

If you start it and it quickly dies, then sounds like it has no compression when you try to restart it.... then you let it sit 1/2 hour and it has compression again.... that is the typical scenario when oil pressure goes too high and you hydrolock the lifters. This causes the valves to stay...

I've seen this a couple times when the weather gets cold. Try putting a mechanical oil pressure gage in it. You need a gage with a 1/8" NPT thread. Screw it in in place of the original sender for the gage. Start it up and check the oil pressure immediately. If the pressure goes too high ( above...

****... I was hoping to revisit Hawaii.... only been once back in high school, played in the marching band and did a ceremony at the Pearl Harbor Memorial back in like 1987. Once you get them out, send me a PM and we can talk. Just pay the shipping costs( for the injectors... I'm too big for...

If Storeman is no longer available, I've mentioned earlier that I can do them.

Sounds like it's time to pull the injectors out and have a look. If your machine isn't very rusty, they should come out pretty easily. If you take the injector nozzle off you will probably find that the needle is stuck in the nozzle. You can try cleaning the needles and nozzles to free them up...

If you're saying the pin that fits into the slot in the fuel rack does not move freely ( swing left and right about 50 degrees ) then yes your pumps need attention. Before you go replacing them, get a gallon can of the "soaking type " carburator cleaner. Take the pumps out and soak them for a...

I've had several machines with a "Factory" installed ( if you want to call it that ) remote monitoring system that goes in place of the diagnostic connector. It connects to the gages and shut off switch, but not the output lugs. I assume it was used to remotely monitor and shut down the...

Good advice Guyfang. You need the TM for reference, pictures and descriptions are invaluable. The fuel rack is the long stamped steel bar that sits inside the engine block, just under the metering pumps. It connects the governor and fuel stop lever to the arms on the metering pumps. It is...

I think you are fine as far as timing and Plunger guide. 1 tick away from the mark is not a problem. I believe another member here once did a timing button test to compare timing to power output and found no significant difference in power or performance until you get much further away from the...

Sounds like there's a good chance that one of the metering pumps has a stuck lever and that is keeping your fuel rack stuck in or close to the off position. The slight amount of fuel coming out of #1 and #4 could be that they are slightly out of adjustment or possibly the rack is not quite all...

Hey Renuing, Its hard to tell without seeing it myself, but don't expect to see a lot of fuel spraying out of the "Cracked" injector lines. The volume of fuel in each stroke of the pump is very small, so it normally just looks like a drip or small spurt coming from the loosened lines. It doesn't...

HayliteHeavy, first verify that you have good fuel flow to the metering pumps by either pulling off a hose from one of the pumps or crack the banjo bolt coming off the fuel filter housing. I've seen plenty of pumps that make noise but don't move any fuel. If you have good flow, then verify the...

Up above you stated the Hz gage was pegged all the way up above 65Hz, not down at below 55. If that's the case your Frequency transducer is probably dead. Sounds like first you need to jump out the oil and temp sensors one at a time and determine which is the problem. Once you get it to stay...

If your machine sits outside, open up the air shutters and look inside at the wires on the temp switch, I've seen several with mouse nests in there and chewed wires. If a wire is broken it will shut down when you release the start switch. You can get your hand in there to work, but its a little...

As for the voltage and Hz meters, assuming the gages are reading correct, the Hz being pegged means the throttle is set too fast and needs to be backed down to read around 61.5 hz at no load. Sounds like the voltage is set too low as well. 91VAC at plug and 180 on meter because your AM/VM...

You're right about flashing the field, normally you can hold the starter switch after the machine has started and the starter cutout near the oil filter will disconnect power from the starter as soon as the motor starts, but it sounds like that is not working. I suppose a quick short cut to test...

Geez, trying to go from memory... I believe there was a pretty hefty wire along the firewall supplying power to the controller? I think I cut and spliced into that feed wire, put the 24V solenoid on the flat area near washer bottle, then cut and spliced the output of the solenoid into the fat...