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NAPA has civilian switches that also work if you do not want to wait. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?130915-Air-stop-light-switch-issue&highlight= or metal, if you don't want the white plastic...

The interim story is here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?139585-Engine-sound-don-t-like-what-I-am-hearing-Help-me-diagnose/page1

I would think that a little time, a pyrometer and setting fuel delivery and droop screws to where they ought to be would fix that!:evil::naner:

This progressed to engine defect/failure. Engine swap time, then rebuild.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?130059-Blow-by-assessment-opinions-needed! Had considerable blow-by for a long, long time. Progressed to major engine defect (not yet diagnosed).

You found a good supplier. Well...a set of brake shoes for a 2002-2004 F-150 is 50 bucks. They seem small beside a deuce brake shoe. "Pricey" is relative, I would say. You have a truck with 6 brake drums, so... :-) You can save a bit of coin by rebuilding the wheel cylinders (kits available)...

You are further ahead than me... I would only touch the IP to bypass the FDC and adjust droop screw and fuel delivery. I would replace the oil supply and oil return hoses for the IP. Otherwise, I'd leave it alone, unless there are issues.

Yes, I think that is correct. What I tried to say is that without any other axle or suspension parts being faulty, there is about one to one and a half inches of lateral movement.

The trunnion bearing is one to check (and grease, while you are at it) - lateral play or lateral shift can originate there. My experience on my truck that has serviceable dog bones and good trunnion bearings is that in a tight turn there is about 1 - 11/2 inches lateral difference between the...

Negative. They don't - despite some 400 updates, compared to the original.

Bad ground would be on the top of my list.

I am not aware of any dual circuit M36 trucks. There is a nice looking M36 for sale in the classifieds...with a parts truck, if you want it.....

I remember agonizing over this when I was looking for mine. This time round, I would just look for a mechanically healthy, rust-free Deuce, preferably SteelSoldier-owned, that is well maintained and not abused with deep-water fording, mud bogs and the like. Unless your plan is to to a complete...

aua Machine shop called. The shop they subbed the work out to discovered that they need to disassemble the head to do the welding and practically doubled the quote. $1400 for R&R of one (1) head :shock: craaazy. I pulled the plug on the shop and will deal with getting the old heads back next...

Went exactly as Gerhard predicted. Dropped pan, had sufficient clearance to access the deep sump oil pipe and remove it - pull pan out, done!

Just an update on progress! I keep the engine on my single axle trailer, just so I can move it, if needed. I don't have an engine hoist or any other lifting device. The trailer also provides an elevated, clean work platform for me. Yesterday I stood the engine up onto its bellhousing, after...

I just removed my air compressor and base (and the oil filter base and the fuel filter base and the tappet cover...) Nothing to worry about. I would remove the air compressor first (4 bolts), simply for better access. It is straightup bolt removal for the base; no secrets. As you already said...

I spoke to an old-timer today who was shop foreman at Hercules Engines and he told me exactly what you posted!! Thanks and hopefully this info will be useful for others that stare at their cylinder heads and wonder if they can be redone.

Will post Monday/Tuesday how it went!

Situation: engine out, cribbed on blocks of 6x6 on my trailer (so I can work on it and move it; I have no lifting devices). I have approximately 10 inches of clearance underneath the "deep" hump of the oil pan (about the depth of the sump). Before I lay down inside the trailer, spoon with the...