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NEW for that price would be awesome. For "good, used", from what I found, it's close, price-wise. A good used LDT head is, what, about $150-200? I've seen them up to $300. Then there is shipping (and they sure are heavy!). Then I still have to swap the LDT stuff for LDS valves and springs, have...

Allright, so we shall see. One head is ok, the other needs to have cracks fused in three locations. Over-the-thumb quote is running at about $600. No choice, really. I don't have the heads, so can't check which valve springs they have. Is it crucial to swap for the new style?

Passed this info on to the shop. Now let's see what they say. IF, Plan B, I need replacement heads, I suspect the LDS heads are not exactly the same as LDT heads? At least need to use the LDS valves and springs?

I finally managed to talk to a coherent individual and their concern is that they need to weld three cracks, which always causes some amount of warpage. They then resurface. They are not concerned that they will take away so much material that they cut into the coolant passages, but they want to...

The heads come off a Continental-rebuilt LDS-465-1A. The engine is definitely rebuilt, because the rod and main bearings are 0.20 oversized. I have no way of knowing if the heads were also re-surfaced during the rebuild (or if the engine is on its fifth or ninth head gasket...). My understanding...

So the machine shop has my heads and they panic a little (I thought they did plenty of trucks and tractors, but maybe not). First, they were concerned about cracks. I supplied the pertinent info out of the LDS troubleshooting manual (cracks typically in two locations, between valve seats and...

I know where ONE of them went...into the push rod passage and **splash** into the oil pan. I will find it later. However, I am still missing TWO head nuts (and for a slightly anal-retentive person, that is bad news. 28 studs, 28 washers, 26 nuts). I have no idea how I could have misplaced them...

Not to dampen your enthusiasm, but did you jump the starter with 24V before open heart surgery? It may be as simple as a bad ground... Also, a modern gear reduction starter is available, if your starter is truly u/s and you are looking for a reasonably priced alternative.

Glad to see that things smoothen out for you! It is nice that you make the effort to keep an original gasser an original gasser and not do a swap of some sort. I think that they are not outright rare, yet, but they sure seem to become rare-ish, especially sound trucks with strong running...

Yes, I bought one and installed it. It appears to be a well-made unit. It is not just a copy of the original, but a better engineered version. Someone here with a lot more knowledge and experience in fuel injection systems looked at it in more detail and it checked out very much ok.

Thanks, G. SO the LDS multifuel flywheel will NOT work in a Deuce, given the measurement differences?

Yes, and the LDS pistons have double oil squirters as well as the 4 rings.* *EDIT: Thanks SCSG-G4 - he points out that the LDS-465-1A pistons apparently also have 3 rings** If one feels really spendy, then one could use the rebuild set for the 478 Hercules tractor engine - the pistons are Diesel...

Yes, gasket set head new style.

I have a head gasket from m-35tom and a complete headgasket kit from Memphis equipment. Yes, $$, but when you think of the alternative - time spent cutting your own (where you can), sourcing the one or two you can't McGyver, and using RTV for the others....I think it is the price to pay, given...

After a slight battle with a single exhaust manifold nut, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?142862-4-cylinder-lower-nut-exhaust-manifold-!!!! , the heads are finally off and went to the machine shop today, together with the flywheel. The multifuel 5ton flywheel is the same as the...

I am about to do that, too. I know that you can just screw a couple of self tapping screws right into the old seal and pull it out with pliers on the screws (no need to even remove the carrier). With the screws out, the carrier should come out with gentle prying.

Do tell about the locomotive ones! What are the specs and where would one get those?

I tried the griptite wrench http://www.griptitetools.com/ but the head is too thick to fit in the tight space. Next was the nut splitter...

Well, today's progress was six hours for 11 out of 12 exhaust manifold nuts and all intake hardware, flame heater removal and assorted other items. I expected the exhaust nuts to pt up a fight, so I sprayed the suckers for a week and today heated the nuts up as hot as I could get them with a...

Take the shutoff cover off again and check the lever. It needs to sit in the 7 o clock position with the shutoff released. Move the lever by hand and see if it moes freely - if not, loosen the two screws that hold the bracket a little. They should not be too tight. If that is ok, and if you did...