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Unless you are going fording (which you should NOT) just remove it and clean up the connections just like every other vehicle on the planet.

As far as I know there is no aftermarket replacement for the turbo trucks, it has a longer radiator than the rest.

They are bias and one is an 8 bolt!!! I bet she ain't got squat for miles on her, too bad they cut the harness when they removed the dash, there are some front end parts gone, the 200A is gone:( I of course have no idea what the history is, it has a NP242 so I assume it has an upgraded fuel...

One thing, check the hubs regularly there is only a few ounces of gear oil in there, also do not use GL5 in the transmission as it eats yellow metal and there is a bunch of yellow metal in that transmission.

I replaced the last of the original 7K half shafts on the DuraVee today, only 20,000 miles but 30 years old, I guess I can't complain. As I have said before I use M10-1.5X35 flanged bolts and the larger Nord Lock 1528 washers, these things really cling! And of course a new seal. I have been...

It is in the water cross over on the drivers side, (where the top hose connects to the engine) that later pump has a little higher pressure, will not make any difference in practical terms.

Nice! IIRC that is a Swiss version.

I would add that doing the floor does not cost very much, there is no reason not to, it gives more access and that is NEVER a bad thing on a HMMWV!! EDIT the part numbers for the floor kits are 12469253 and 12469252

This is what the factory kits look like. https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/bokitforhmha1.html https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/bokitforhmha.html

See attached. The 7K are generally considered non rebuildable as you have to beat them apart instead of just releasing a clip. It is a very messy job and thankless job o_O

What vehicle do you have? If as your avatar eludes to you have a M998 or a M998A1 you can only install 7 or 10 K shafts, if you have an A2 you will only have 12K shafts. I measured some shafts out in the shop and I get 7K= 1.085" 10K= 1.140" and 12K= 1.210" The 12K has a very distinct...

The only hitch I can see with the split boots are that on the HMMWV they turn nearly twice as fast as any other half shaft without gear reduction hubs, that is quite allot of centrifugal force on an out of balance boot. I can strip the Chicom boots off of the import shafts when approaching...

I am pretty sure 2990014222826 12460487 Is the down/cross over pipe. But you are going to wish you got that pipe with the motor, a quick search shows over $900. If you have a custom one made make sure they build a heat shield on it for where it crosses in front on the trans pan. I have one...

I see no reason the CW pump would not work, I forgot there are many 6.5L running around with V belts and the CW pump as the A1 trucks that went through RECAP retained the V belts. (personally I would go the extra cost of converting to serpentine belts SOOOOO much better) You are probably OK...

Allot to process here. Yes there is a down pipe that will connect the turbo to the M998 exhaust. You will have to remove the TPS and install the kick down switch on the IP you will also need to install the mechanical throttle linkage for the 3L80 If your M998 had a 60A alternator you will need...

Also if your spare has the run flat in it you will have to unbolt the wheel halves because the run flat will prevent you from simply breaking the bead and inserting the valve stem as you would be able to do with a civy tire/wheel

I have not heard of anyone doing this and of course would not recommend it but there are two basic size holes for valve stems .453" and .625" You may find it hard to drill true as that bit will likely walk around that keyed hole, and have never measured one to see if it is even possible.

I replaced the boots on a 10K shaft today. I have had trouble in the past getting the band tight enough with the regular "plier" type tool. One of the many perks of getting old :mad: So I picked up this cheap tool off of fleabay, use the pliers type tool to progressively crimp the clamp as tight...

Copycat parts are very prevalent, some have even found there way into completely legitimate parts "suppliers" The government have bought many illegitimate parts, I have certainly bought my share of crap parts, that is a byproduct of bargain hunting. There are certainly tons of "good" deals out...

I'm with Camo, there is not allot going on there, pretty simple stuff and the valve does not pull much current, certainly not enough to burn connectors. There is allot of copycat crap out there, on the auction sites you have to be very careful as they LOOK pretty good, even some sellers with...