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As an example if you scroll up to figure 331, then down to the part numbers you will see BVY is not listed at all, that is because that is the heater system used on the Basic and A1 series

This will be a great time to start familiarizing yourself with the TMs they are an invaluable source of information for your M1097A2 There is a sticky at the top of this forum with all the TMs you will need. Here is a link to the 2nd parts manual that covers your M1097A2...

Heck the 2X2 should be plenty to maintain the batteries. Another bad thing about Texas is we get to drive our toys year round so maintaining the batteries is not an issue..

I had the same question, just got off of chat with them, they say yes will charge two 12V batteries connected in series

Holy Moly get that battery off the seat!o_Oo_Oo_Oo_O

How about the TDM?

My old man used to take me down to the basement at Wilford Hall on Lackland AFB and I would get a crew cut for $.25 and took about 1-2 minutes:)

You should also check/clean the common ground points, there is one behind the inst. panel that has a bolt that goes through the firewall with another cable attached on the outside of the fire wall on the same bolt, also there can be several on the back of the engine, on the heads etc.

The next thing I would do is disconnect the batteries, and remove and check both big "cannon" style plugs on the inside and outside of the EESS and the connectors on cables including the areas where the cables go into the connectors for signs of trouble, discolored pins heap dead burnt wires...

Don't replace anything until you have done some trouble shooting, the EESS box would be very high on the suspect list but not the only possible cause. Calling it a "run" relay may be slightly incorrect, it would probably be more correct to call it an "accessory" relay, power for starting and...

Why? it is the "run" relay. Just turn the run switch on, if your fans will not run even before you start the truck tap the box and see if they come one, if not that still does not guarantee the relay is not bad, if it does it pretty much confirms it. REMEMBER to always wait 90 seconds EVERY time...

It will be marked IGN or SENSE and the wire tag will be 5A, the relay/relays are IN the EESS/PCB box, hence the hammer suggestion

Check the voltage at the IGN. terminal on the regulator, I think you will find an answer there. The EESS box excites the alternator using the same relay it powers the fans with and it has likely failed.

I would contact a Stanadyne shop and ask what the spec differences are in the pumps, they came out with different spec numbers all the time even for the same engine, they can tell you all about fuel delivery and timing. The only real difference between the 6.2L and the 6.5L (detuned) is about...

It can take a while to cook that stuff out, it really needs to get a load on it to heat the exhaust up or it could smoke for a long time, if nothing else run it at a higher RPM using the high idle control under the dash.

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Curious, did the old engine blow up? the reason I ask is your exhaust could be contaminated with oil, water or fuel.

I am assuming warming up a little bit is all you have done. Put 500-1000 miles on it before worrying too much about it.

That's right, TEXAS SUCKS so there is no need for Y'all to drag your sorry carcasses down here:cool:

If you were closer I would give you a couple tires better than that, the RF has a pattern that looks like it sat flat for a while, ideal recipe for a failure. SO SO tires are pretty cheap, that one does not even meet that spec.