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Its hard for me to speak right now.... my mouth is too full of DROOL! :drool: Yet another fantastic resto!!!

If you can get access to a decent air compressor they make small hand sandblasters that are pretty much fertilizer sprayers with a different tip on them. They're great for doing small areas. Maybe you could grind/wire brush an area at a time, then blast off the remaining rust pits and spot prime...

Looks like CARC to me too. I've used several of the "Rust converters" in the past. They work a little, but there's no substitute for sandblasting. I've used POR-15 and Chassis Saver paints too, but it only lasted a couple years before the rust started coming through again and I needle scaled...

Right side looks like HEPG to me, if that would possibly stand for anything? Sometimes you can media blast steel and be able to read the image in the steel, but I don't think that will work in your case. It works very well where factory markings were put on bare steel with acid paint markers...

Fifty, I do a good amount of plastic and urethane bumper painting on car parts. The process I use is to wipe down with SEM plastic prep cleaner, then use SEM "Scuff-n-Clean" with a red scotch brite pad, scour the plastic with the scuf pad dipped in the Scuff-n Clean compound. Wash with soap and...

SSDVC, Black beauty and Black Diamond are both coal slag products, great for blasting steel, but I'd say way too aggressive for aluminum. Also, be careful with both of them, they tend to have short "string like" pieces mixed in that easily clog your nozzle. Always sift it first. I would only use...

I've been doing bodywork and paint on antique vehicles for almost 30 years and here's my 2cents on rust patches. Welding in patch panels isn't all that difficult but a couple pointers to help make it a lasting repair.... cut out any rot that you can and sandblast any remaining rust. Although it...

Are you sure those flea-bay pumps will work, the "demo" unit only has a lift of 8', I thought you had to go more like 18'? Not sure on the other one, the specs sound a little confusing. 5M suction 10M lift? I thought suction and lift both meant the same thing, but I'm no pump engineer :lol: so...

Now I'm really confused.... is it a MEP-016B?? Never heard of a -0168 Single cyl. Yanmar diesel with a rope start and an open cage?

Here's the direct read digital HZ/volt meter I used. Just 2 wires hooked to the OEM volt meter gives you volts and Hz. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-or-Diesel-Generator-Voltage-and-Frequency-Meter-/151153658052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233175c8c4#ht_2610wt_906

Guys, a word of advice on those e-bay digital meters, instead of the one Fletcher0780 pictured, locate a direct read one ( same price ) The one in Fletcher's picture uses an induction coil to read, some also require 12vDC input. Look for the one that is 90-300 VAC input, 40-70Hz, then just tie...

Here's the link to the compression gage adapter that Jim C was thinking about. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83566-Compression-Testing-on-MEP-002A-003A it gives some dimensions if you can machine or fab-up an adapter. I think any store bought Compression gage will hava a schrader...

If you want to keep the dual 12v setup and factory hold downs on an MEP-002A you can use a pair of 51R batteries (used in Honda) They are just a tad shorter than a 2HN but barely 1/2" difference. I was recently told by a SS newbie that Sam's Club has them for <$60 each. I personally have had...

Bill, I've been away from this thread for a while so maybe I missed it, but have you verified the linkag and solenoid next to the IP is moving freely and not binding up? Also, have you tried starting it with the throttle pushed in rather than at operating speed? One of my units does a similar...

Next time you're working on it see if you can increase engine speed by pushing the linkage going to you IP with your finger. Have a similar situation where I can't achieve both the rated min and max speeds. I think it's something with the cable. My adjustment is all the way out and I get a min...

You really don't even need to pull the cover off to see what's going on in there, just flip up the cover above the injection pump and you can see everything pretty well. I took another look at mine last night and am starting to wonder if a new spring would help rather than shortening the cable...

$690 for a flex pipe?:shock: maybe he was quoting an 1 1/4" flexible explosion proof electrical conduit connector.... to a government agency.... for use on the space station?? I wonder if it was the same guy who recently quoted me $680 for a frequency transducer:?:...

Steve, for $43 the 10" flex pipe with NPT ends is a no-brainer. Much easier to work with , no welding and no adapters to figure out. The longer flex section the better, ones shorter than 8" are hardly "flexible" at all. I can't wait to see some pictures, I'm still deciding what my dual MEP-002A...

Steve, I think your actual EGT could easily reach well in excess of 600F under a heavy load, however this does not mean that the outer exhaust pipe will reach the same temperature because it will dissapate a substantial amount of heat before the flex pipe. Also, looking at the spec sheet I don't...

dlsacco, you're very welcome, I'm happy to share my similar situation. So my cable has a clevice swaged onto the end of the cable itself, so in order to gain more adjustment I might cut the cable off, drill and tap the existing clevice for a 10/32 and install the cable adapter I made yesterday...