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This is, unfortunately, not uncommon. Your flasher unit is likely now fried and you will need yet another one. My theory of electronics: They function magically by grey smoke contained in the electronic components. If you do something stupid and cause the grey smoke to leak out, the electronics...
In this case, isn't a stuck plunger in the hydraulic head a possible culprit? I also remember reading a thread that described a similar sounding issue with fuel to the pump, even to the head and no flow into the injector lines. What the heck..I did the search...here it is...
Yes, sir: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67703-What-did-you-do-to-your-deuce-this-week&p=1151941&viewfull=1#post1151941
Fuel is turned up, but mildly so. I did paint the pod and gauge surround green in the meantime!
My D-turbo puts out 15 psi when sufficiently motivated. I understand your thinking regarding full sweep, but I like the fact that my Westach EGT gauge has the yellow range straight up at 12 o'clock. I do not need to read numbers; a quick glance shows the pointer position and if it is straight up...
What a cool recovery trip! I hope that your import will be as painless as mine....US export check took longer than CBSA import formalities. Pay the Queen and off you go!
When you are taking a driving test to obtain a licence, you are dealing with the government in order to get something from them. Let's forget the "right" versus "privilege" and "they are there to serve me" debates for a moment.
You are there to be examined by an examiner - you want something...
Hello! I am "North" only relative to the majority of US forum members!
If ever I make it up from Ontario to "Edmonton, the Gateway to Fort McMurray" I'd love to take you up on your offer!
Moderators, if this is better suited to another forum, feel free to move. I just want to hear from those that actually drive 900 series trucks.
I am an avid Ice Road Trucker follower and have been wondering for a while whether these low(er) speed, rough road applications would make a 900 series...
Reluctant to answer because I can only offer second-hand info. Yes, that has been done; I remember reading a post about it. Of note is that you need to shut off both supply and return lines to reliably prevent flow to the flame heater and uncontrolled leakage.
I should not hijack a thread, but it's my thread. Given your experience, do you have any suggestions for GROTE taillights that lost half of their LEDs? All worked fine; now only 50% of the LEDs illuminate (on one taillight only). Known fixes?
Also note that a gear reduction starter has been identified that fits the Multi, requiring only the enlargement of the starter mounting holes. An alternative to bear in mind if original replacement is too $$$ and repair not an option...
Another culprit could be the starter button itself. It sparks internally and self-destructs after so many cycles. Known issue. An improvement exists (from cranetruck?) that simply adds a relay; install new start button, wire start button to operate the relay and let the relay handle the "real"...
No personal experience, but people here have pulled their bed for a variety of reasons with different methods. You need to support the overhang with items of appropriate height; I believe someone used steel barrels. Chain the rear of the bed to a tree and move the truck forward. I can see a...
I think spark plug gap also. There is no other logical reason why finely dispersed carbon fuel would not ignite. Having said that, I have fussed with flame heaters on various models (mostly fire trucks and Steyr Diesels) I second the notion to go with the times and move to the ether dosing...
What do you intend to use the chains for? Traction aid for the mostly empty hobby truck, so you do not get stuck on the road on the way home? Then one set of ladder-type chains (e.g. miltary surplus), single-wheel type, is likely sufficient. Put them onto the rearmost outer wheels. No need to...
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